I can see KR, spark, O2 sensors, Ltrims, Map, iat, and some other **** on the Predator. The problem is, you cant see them all at the same time and there's no way to print or download what you are seeing as far as I know.

 

i read the other thread, yeah they do kinda settle in. think it has to do with the ltft's, learning the fueling. it makes it harder to log that way but you can still do it. find a quiet stretch of road, take a buddy. do several runs, do a semi aggressive throttle run and log for kr,then spark adv,then map,then o2's, thenltft's . try to make them as similar as possible and write down the info. i'd graph it by rpm's, if you can make the runs close that will give you an idea of the correlation between fueling/air/spark. then do full wot runs. it's not exact but you may see a pattern by rpms where your having problems. i used the whipple intake tube and made an aluminum box to seal off the front passenger corner. i'm using the stock air intakes from the fender and the front of the box is open to the area behind the lights, i have the cone filter attatched to the maf. i've seen a few guys do the filter on the maf on the t.b, but would'nt recommend that unless you have an intercooler. you'l be sucking hot engine bay air and it will not benefit you at all. you'd be better off doing something like i have. like i said my temps are very close to ambient, the only time they go up slightly is extended time at stop's and that's only maybe ten degrees, and it drops immedietly when i start going. e

 

just read the other post again, where is your fuel pressure gauge reading from ? the factory fuel pressure reg should have an allowed range of 55-62 psi. like i said before try taking the b.a.p off and see what your pressure is. if it stay's at 61 at idle and does'nt drop below 59 at wot shift you don't need it. e

 

at idle, my fuel pressure is 52. is that too low? I'm measuring it from the spot where the whipple aux injectors are. I was told it is the most accurate place.

 

the whipple install says, fuel pressure at idle should be 59-63 at idle with the fuel reg vacumn reference disconnected. also says at wot shifts pressure should not drop below 59 psi. i don't recall if removing the vacumn line raised or lowered the pressure. i asked where it was measured to see if it was somehow on the pump side of the f.p.r. it is better to have to much pressure than not enough. it was also a shot in the dark on why your tune was being difficult. try to check it with the vac line off see what you've got. e

 

Ok, lets start this topic back up. My fuel pressure at idle is 52. My fuel pressure at idle with the fuel regulator vacuum reference unplugged is 60.

I took my truck to a GMC dealership. They logged about a half hour of driving. They noticed no problem. Of course. It feels like I am either dumping too much fuel(bogging out) or my tranny is slipping. The only time it seems to run well is at wot. I can't explain it. I'll be driving along at normal speeds, 30-60mph, I'll lightly give it more gas, the fuel pressure goes up, the boost goes up, the tach goes up, the truck falls on its face or starts bucking. Does that sound like it's dumping too much fuel, not enough fuel, loss of spark, too much spark???????????

So far, the 43lb injectors were the biggest waste of money on this truck. Not worth it at all. I got no improvement, actually running worse.

 

Hey DenaliHD, I just finished reading this thread and I'm still in the same boat as you. I have the old 2 pulley Whipple setup. I have never been able to get this to run right from day 1. I see 6 psi of boost and the fuel pressure is fine but from the beginning I had detonation.

I dumped the Whipple CPU and aux injectors after first wasting my money on a Predator programmer and 3 or 4 tunes that didn't help. I went with a Westers PCM after that; that's when I dumped the Whipple POS electronics. It was better but still had detonation. 3 PCM's later I got a refund from him because I wasn't happy. Then I went with a local guy with a dyno tune and new program through LS1 edit and before and after dyno results netted me 0 extra HP. I think I have 278-280 RWH (rear wheel hp) which in my opinion is low. After he tried to fix it numerous times and didn't (SES light is on most of the time now, it's running rich, and I have an annoying idle issue where when I come to a stop the idle will momentarily drop to 300-400 and then shoot back up to 600) I said screw it because he was wasting my time and I had wasted enough money on him (he wouldn't give me a refund either).

Now, I'm going with the marine 8.1L injectors and a dyno tune from PCMs for less. I have heard great things about Bryan and he will be working with me on this in Philly at a shop very soon. Waiting for the injectors to arrive from ASM and getting some super servos/shift kit installed next week as well.

The blow off that we have on the whipple is fully mechanical and I don't believe plugging any lines will do anything. There are no electronics going to it. Like I said I see the full 6 lbs of boost with that hooked up but the truck is a slug. Had I not had so much money in the whole setup already and had the Radix been out I would have spent the extra money to get the complete kit. Seems like every Whipple owner I read up on has the same problem; so I guess I don't feel so bad anymore.

I will keep you posted as to how this tuning session turns out. Good luck.

 

Mine did the same think as far as fallin on its face. I correct tune makes all the difference. ive dropped 1.5 seconds buy tuning alone after my 6.0 swap and injector conversion.

 

I don't understand this whole "dyno tune" thing. Are you folks telling me that you have local dyno shops that use ls1 edit and actually know how to use it? There are no dyno shops around here like that. The last one I went to couldn't figure out how to measure my HP and torque at the same time. Total waste of my time and money.

What would happen if I zip tie that butterfly valve in the upright position? what would that do?

 

Mine also was fallen on its face when I had just the whipple setup. Steve at whipple told me it was TM so I had it removed and it worked. But I was still not impressed. Stock I ran 15.68 then with whipple setup went to 14.7 on 6#'s. Then with allen's tune with the 43lb injectors and 8# pulley i'm down to 13.82.