does he have a different setup than the rest of us ? imo nothing should be "vented". i removed the 90 degree barbed fitting and used an 1/8" npt plug [this is the line that comes from the solonoid]. the other line goes to the bypass diaphram, remove the line from the diaphram and use a real vacumn cap. don't know why exactly but when i did it right i went from 5 pounds to 6 pounds. i believe the default position of the solonoid is the open position, which must have some affect on the diaphram movement. also your timing tables will need major adjustment or it will just fall on it's face. e . p.s just checked my pe vs rpm tables, they are only slightly modified from 4800 up. i am not running lean at all at 8 pounds.

 

Hey etc can you get a picture. Too many tubes and routing to explain... I have mine venting to atmosphere instead of going to a tube so the diaphram can react quickly when air is pushed out of there.

Ya the PE vs. RPM is something you will just have to log and get your O2s in the .920 range. I think I had to set mine so high because of the intercooler. Oh and the 11.8 pounds of boost.

 

That would be the EGR I believe. Mine is a 2000 w/ the 5.3, so maybe yours is configured differently.

 

mine already falls flat on its face without removing any of those tubes. Dropping a match in the gastank sound more and more like a good plan every day. How do i get the info to Allen that he needs to be able to tune this thing right? Should i bring it to the dealership and let them hook it up to tech2 and give me a disk of what they saw? Is there some sort of handheld tuner(not Predator) that I can buy so I can make my own adjustments(not that I would know how to)?

this mail order tuning is getting old real fast. I'm on my 4th or 5th tune already and it still runs like ***.

 

I unplugged one of those L shaped lines today. It ran about the same but, I could only get 7psi. I unplugged the other, same result. I plugged them both back in and I get 8psi. Why again would I want to unplug one of them?

 

ok someone help me out with denali's bypass. look at the picture and tell me what you think. denali, what is that silver rod going to the metal housing ? is that an actuator rod or a mounting bolt ? it appears that your solonoid and diaphram are in the same unit. without a disassembled view it's difficult to say what to do. the vac tube on the left [alongside the large metal tube] appears to be the vacumn reference tube [ activates the butterfly diaphram] that should need to be left on. if the one going in to the metal housing is the "bleed off" [reroutes boosted air to the other side of the diaphram] it needs to be removed. it may not be possible to do this with that setup, i don't honestly know. i hoped someone with that setup would speakup. you need to call richard at whipple and ask him if it is possible to bypass that solonoid, that is where i got the original info on mine. your warranty is over so there is no reason for him not to tell you. sorry i can't be of more help, i'd need to play with it to figure it out. call whipple. e

 

like i said mine made more boost when i capped the diapram. yes i can see where the 11+ pounds would require more fuel. still working on the scanner thing, the best picture is the underside view from the install pack. we need to figure out whats up with the old two pulley style for denali and anyone else who may have that setup. of course without seeing exactly what's hooked up were shooting in the dark. i also seem to remember him saying something about 55 psi on the fuel that seems way to low, especially at 8 pounds. he may have kr out the *** and thats why allen can't get a bead on the tune. e

 

sorry i should have done this all in one post. denali tell us everything you did in detail, also include fuel pressure, any signs of audible knock, where your boost pressure is referenced from [ where it's reading from]. since you don't have any way to log it, it's guess work. looking at the ls1edit mail, it looks like they are going to start including a scan software with it and may give it to existing users, you may want to look into that. if you're getting 8 pounds of boost at the manifold and the whipple is not controlling any signal input to the pcm, my best guess like i said is not enough fuel pressure which would cause you to run lean and cause knock and pull timing. let's fix this before you torch it. e

 

etc, sorry man, I haven't been on here in a few days. Ok, i am getting 8psi and my fuel pressure is way up around 65-70. When i said it was 55, i was wrong. something came unplugged and the needle was stuck. my bad. I am getting kr up to 6, but not always. I can't hear any detonation. I have the boost a pump still hooked up but everything else from the whipple computer is gone.

as far as the solenoid thing, the silver thing in the picture is some sort of valve i guess. with either of those vacuum lines unplugged, the valve opens. It then moves with the gas pedal. with the lines both hooked up, it sometimes opens and sometimes closes. also, the vacuum line on the top doesn't shoot out any air when removed, the one on the bottom does. hope that helps.

I need a suggestion on how to get allen some accurate info. Can the dealership log some info for me? There are no good dyno's around here.

 

ok, fuel pressure; you can ask allen but 65-70 seems high, try completly bypassing the boost a pump and see if it puts you in the 60-64 at idle range. you may be getting to much fuel with those bigger inj's. i'm not sure how you know you're getting up to 6 degrees of kr ? if you have some sort of logging tool, tell me. some dealerships can log vehicles while their being driven, none by me could. vacumn lines; the one that does'nt blow should suck, that should be the one coming from near your t.b. that's the one that should open the butterfly and allow boost, it should move relative to throttle position/vacumn. the one that blows should be the one that comes from after the valve [boosted air], that's the one that should direct boosted air to the opposite side of the diaphram and limit the butterfly movement therefore limiting boost. from what your saying and if the system is anything like mine, i would leave the one that does'nt blow, remove the one that does, and plug the fitting where it comes out of the compressor body and at the solonoid. that should disable it. getting allen info; back to the kr, how do you know that ? you'd have to log somehow to see the kr. so what's going on there ? personally i got efi live and allen downloaded the software from their site. i send him the logs of his tunes and he can see the results of the tune. it's important to be able to see where the kr is occuring or not occuring to be able to nail the timing, to much it kr and it pulls timing, not enough and you lose power, way to little and it falls on it's face. also it helps to see the o2 readings and the ltfts, rich or lean. even if you don't get a logging tool, don't get discouraged, he'll get it. you have to realize that without actual logged feedback he's taking educated shot's in the dark. if your truck was stock maybe two tunes and you'd be set, but boosted motors need more fine adjustments and react alot more to minor tuning inputs. if you want it to go faster get efi live or one of the other loggers he can get software for. we'll get it just keep us updated. e