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Need info for TVS2300 370 SS build

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Old Dec 20, 2013 | 04:49 PM
  #21  
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Lol! No problem Justin! Welcome aboard! That's why I forwarded you this link. Atomic has already provided lots of great info here. I'm excited to get our builds done. It'll be interesting to see the difference in a turbo and supercharged truck at the same boost level with everything else nearly identical. We'll have the 2 craziest trucks in town that's for sure.
Thanks again for all the help so far Atomic! I'll keep researching and gathering parts. Hopefully I'll have an update for you guys in a few weeks, and I'm sure I'll be back in a matter of hours with new questions. Lol.
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Old Dec 22, 2013 | 12:44 AM
  #22  
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Atomic, what injectors have you been using to get the 96# at 4bar? I have been using fic injectors since they give you the hpt information.
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Old Dec 22, 2013 | 10:29 AM
  #23  
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Any 96lb injector that is rated at 4bar...I believe that fic 96s are at 4bar. If you have the data they gave you, look at the injector flow rate table and see what it says at 0 vacuum.
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Old Dec 22, 2013 | 10:55 AM
  #24  
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I think this is going to turn out awesome ! A big power blower setup mmmmmmmm

Why can't you just re-pin your IW balancer ? I've re pinned my crank twice , once for the stock balancer and then again when I installed my IW balancer . No probs .
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Old Dec 22, 2013 | 11:02 AM
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I guess I could do that... I just didn't like the idea of two holes in my crank snout and then putting another big woodruff key in it as well. I was thinking of getting it welded up and remachined, then have it machined for the key. But I'm not sure what Northern Industrial would want for something like that, or if it can even be done. I didn't wanna buy another $1000 crank though. That's for sure.
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Old Dec 22, 2013 | 11:07 AM
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It's not going to hurt a thing , I wouldn't want to have to go thru the time /effort/cost to have it worked over at a machine shop , I don't see the need .

But if someone has a valid opinion why to do it please post . I just hate to see at have to do all that .
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Old Jan 4, 2014 | 11:04 PM
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Few questions on my choice of heads. I know... I know... Another LS3 vs L92 heads question. I've searched and searched and there are so many mixed responses. I honestly think half of the people posting didn't have a clue what they were talking about. But from what I gathered, the LS3 have hollow, lighter valves, and possibly flow better? My biggest question is, are the LS3 chamber size 70cc as well? If so, it sounds like the LS3s are obviously the better choice. I definitely don't want to raise compression at all by going to a smaller chamber. I wanna cram lots of boost into this build and a 9.5 cr seems right about where I wanna be. Any advice/opinions? Also, is porting/polishing a good place to put money? Or should I spend that money elsewhere and rock the factory casting? I know these heads flow phenomenally as is. I have -2cc valve relief .030 pistons if that makes a difference.
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Old Jan 4, 2014 | 11:52 PM
  #28  
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Chambers and ports are exactly the same, the only difference is the intake valve. The exhaust port is worth having work done but the intake port is fine.
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Old Jan 5, 2014 | 12:42 AM
  #29  
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Great! Thanks for the help!
Should be showing some progress here soon.
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Old Jan 6, 2014 | 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by TIM Z
I think this is going to turn out awesome ! A big power blower setup mmmmmmmm

Why can't you just re-pin your IW balancer ? I've re pinned my crank twice , once for the stock balancer and then again when I installed my IW balancer . No probs .
Do you happen to have pics of when you pinned your IW damper? It's a woodruff key design, while the stock damper was pinned with circle 1/4" dowels. :/
Did you machine your crank to fit a woodruff key with the crank still in the motor, or did you just drill the IW to use the same circle dowels as the stock damper? I definitely wanna do it right the first time. Lol. It's a lot of work to go through, but I may end up pulling the motor and taking the crank to have it welded and lathed, then machined for a woodruff key. I have to do heads/studs etc. anyway. May end up pulling the motor, building the long block and doing my fuel system, then drop the newly built motor in and install the 2300. I'll probably put all new bearings in and stud the bottom end while it's out too. Then when funds allow, sell my 65e and put the 80e in. Lol! Sounds like so much when you lay it out like that... Gonna be a busy summer!!!
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