GM Engine & Exhaust Performance EFI | GEN I/GEN II/GEN III/GEN IV Engines |Small Block | Big Block |

need help fast! truck wont start!

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Old Mar 1, 2009 | 09:52 AM
  #11  
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check all of the fuses also.
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Old Mar 1, 2009 | 10:25 AM
  #12  
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like stated make sure all of your connections are plugged back in, the MAF your fuel injector harness, etc....if something isnt snapped in right, then you will have issues
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Old Mar 1, 2009 | 06:48 PM
  #13  
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From you explaination it appears your experience is limited. First some terminology. Crank:to rotate as in the crank spins(has nothing to do with starting and running so fuel and spark are not yet in the picture). Start:implies the engine is now running(cranking has been terminated) which means we have spark, fuel and compression at the correct time. Do you know how to verify whether you have spark and fuel. Leave compression for later. Did you make yourself a checklist during disassembly so you could refer to it during reassembly? Apparently not. Do you have any parts left over. That's not a good thing. If the plugs are gas soaked fuel is not your problem. Have you checked for spark? If you had no compression your engine would spin extremely fast. You would notice that.
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Old Mar 1, 2009 | 08:15 PM
  #14  
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I have a gauge for that
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This was my first time doing a cam, or anything internal on the motor for that matter, but I found my problem.

Short answer, Im a dumbass.

Long answer is my cam gear was not lined up properly with the crankshaft gear. On the instructions it said to line up the holes, well mine didnt have a hole so I figured it meant the cam stud (that little piece that sticks out of the cam into the gear) since there is a hole in the gear for it that is not lined up with the other 3. I didnt realize this error until a post on ls1tech showed a picture and i realized I was lining up the wrong hole. Instead of a hole on my cam gear it was a little indention near the teeth so with the chain on you cant notice it.

After taking the whole thing apart, again, and lining those up properly this time, and putting everything back together, she started first try and idles fine.

Thanks for all your help guys.
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Old Mar 1, 2009 | 08:40 PM
  #15  
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Yea. That dot is there just for that reason.
Glad to see you got it goin
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Old Mar 1, 2009 | 09:21 PM
  #16  
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You'll be lucky you didn't bend any valves.........
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Old Mar 1, 2009 | 09:26 PM
  #17  
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how would I know if I did? engine idles just fine.
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Old Mar 1, 2009 | 09:27 PM
  #18  
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More than likely you got lucky.....
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Old Mar 1, 2009 | 09:29 PM
  #19  
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Had a friend have his cam 2 teeth off on a big block chevy and upon figuring out why it didn't start, we looked and the valves kissed all his pistons. Still ran the motor but anymore off and something should have or would have broken. I'm sure you just got lucky.
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Old Mar 1, 2009 | 09:42 PM
  #20  
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I just realized that I got really lucky because I was using the TDC method for changing the springs, and since my timing system wasnt aligned right, what I thought was TDC for one cylinder actually wasnt! My cam gear was off about 90 degrees. luckily I didnt have any problems with the spring swap, excpet dropping a lock and having to climb out (I was sitting on the rad support, facing the engine) crawl around on the ground for it, and climb back in was a real pain in the ***.

Oh and a method of removing the locks once they are loose thats even cheaper than a pen magnet is to get a fridge magnetic and run in one direction along a screw driver, works great.
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