Need advice on cam tuning. Im lost!
#21
I don't know how to fully tune with VE, but...
VE is dealing with the efficiency of your motor. The camshaft has a direct impact on how efficient the motor is at different rpms and conditions. It is physically altering airflow. The VE tables are mapped to the stock cams powerband, which provides proper fueling under those specific conditions. Going to a differnet cam should shift the VE of the given motor some, causing improper fueling under different conditions. Every cam has its optimal range where it operates at its best (read that as peak efficency). Think about it, a large cam sacrifices low end power for upper rpm power (shifting its efficent range).
That being said, if there was a good way to correctly remap the VE table to a specific engines needs and mods (cam, intake, headers, etc...) then the trim values would be right at 0 for every cell. But every engine combo is different and each mod you do alters the way an engine operates. I'd think the middle rpms would have the closest ratio for VE between the stock cam and a larger aftermarket one. It would be the low and high rpms that have the greatest difference between the stock cam (strong down low but dies hard later) and aftermarket cam (weak down low that builds up to strong at the end).
Anyway, my point here is that fueling is going to be off after a cam swap. Thats why you'll see different ltrim values for the cells in the low rpms than in the mid and upper rpms. Just changing the injector flow rate would alter fueling for all cells at once and in only one direction (richer / leaner) when it really needs to be fattened up in certain areas and leaned out in certain spots. Those specific fueling changes could be handled by altering the VE tables.
VE is dealing with the efficiency of your motor. The camshaft has a direct impact on how efficient the motor is at different rpms and conditions. It is physically altering airflow. The VE tables are mapped to the stock cams powerband, which provides proper fueling under those specific conditions. Going to a differnet cam should shift the VE of the given motor some, causing improper fueling under different conditions. Every cam has its optimal range where it operates at its best (read that as peak efficency). Think about it, a large cam sacrifices low end power for upper rpm power (shifting its efficent range).
That being said, if there was a good way to correctly remap the VE table to a specific engines needs and mods (cam, intake, headers, etc...) then the trim values would be right at 0 for every cell. But every engine combo is different and each mod you do alters the way an engine operates. I'd think the middle rpms would have the closest ratio for VE between the stock cam and a larger aftermarket one. It would be the low and high rpms that have the greatest difference between the stock cam (strong down low but dies hard later) and aftermarket cam (weak down low that builds up to strong at the end).
Anyway, my point here is that fueling is going to be off after a cam swap. Thats why you'll see different ltrim values for the cells in the low rpms than in the mid and upper rpms. Just changing the injector flow rate would alter fueling for all cells at once and in only one direction (richer / leaner) when it really needs to be fattened up in certain areas and leaned out in certain spots. Those specific fueling changes could be handled by altering the VE tables.
#22
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From: Olathe, Kansas
Originally Posted by BigTex
I agree with Ben, that cam shouldn't need tuning to run fine. Tuning is a bonus but not absolutely needed. I'd double check everything. Do you have any SES lights? Do you have misfires? It could be as simple as a bad plug or plug wire.
You could have the timing chain off by a tooth, which woud be like a BIG advance or retard. With that small of a cam, you shouldn't come into piston / valve contact issues unless it were off more than a couple of teeth. It would just not run quite right. Stumbling and idle issues could be explained by this.
You could have the timing chain off by a tooth, which woud be like a BIG advance or retard. With that small of a cam, you shouldn't come into piston / valve contact issues unless it were off more than a couple of teeth. It would just not run quite right. Stumbling and idle issues could be explained by this.
#23
BigTex,
You are absolutely correct!
You are correct again. A perfect tune would show nothing but 0 for l-trims.
Good point BigKID. I guess this fact should be included...shoot for ltrims 0 or negative as negative ltrims will not subtract fueling, but positive ltrims will add fuel. -good point BigKID 
Hey how about this one for 99Silver5.3's situation. The cam is giving him misfires (which is happening with that size cam and low rpms/idle) This makes the converter act funky. ...not locking correctly? Wouldn't this feel like a loading when the truck was given a little throttle from idle?
I know it is not something you want to cruise around on forever like, but could you just disable the misfire code from the pcm and drive for a while and see if that may solve something. If it does not, then make sure to turn that code back on.
Originally Posted by BigTex
Anyway, my point here is that fueling is going to be off after a cam swap. Thats why you'll see different ltrim values for the cells in the low rpms than in the mid and upper rpms. Just changing the injector flow rate would alter fueling for all cells at once and in only one direction (richer / leaner) when it really needs to be fattened up in certain areas and leaned out in certain spots. Those specific fueling changes could be handled by altering the VE tables.
Originally Posted by BigTex
That being said, if there was a good way to correctly remap the VE table to a specific engines needs and mods (cam, intake, headers, etc...) then the trim values would be right at 0 for every cell.
Originally Posted by BigKID
shoot for zero to slightly negative (0 to -8). Reason being, that if you ever hit PE with +l-trims, it will keep dumping fuel to make up for the lean condition and cause very inconsistant fueling.

Hey how about this one for 99Silver5.3's situation. The cam is giving him misfires (which is happening with that size cam and low rpms/idle) This makes the converter act funky. ...not locking correctly? Wouldn't this feel like a loading when the truck was given a little throttle from idle?
I know it is not something you want to cruise around on forever like, but could you just disable the misfire code from the pcm and drive for a while and see if that may solve something. If it does not, then make sure to turn that code back on.
#26
does it feel like you are pulling a trailor at speeds?...kind of a going smooth and then it feels like someone pulls on your bumper? If so, that is definitely a transmission torque converter locking and unlocking characteristic. I remember my converter doing this to me on a trip back from California and my thermostat broke in the open position. My radiator (RonDavis racing) is so good it made the engine run too cool 144*F
This cooled the trans so much from the trans cooler being in the radiator also that the converter kept unlocking itself to try and warm the tranny fluid up. It felt like I was towing a trailer when it would lock and unlock.
Anyway..good luck man
This cooled the trans so much from the trans cooler being in the radiator also that the converter kept unlocking itself to try and warm the tranny fluid up. It felt like I was towing a trailer when it would lock and unlock.Anyway..good luck man
#28
Look at the Edit document or some of the tuning threads about turning off misfire detection at low rpms. That will make the truck ignore misfires that are due to a cam swap but keep the detection enabled for real misfires. That should stop it from turning on the SES and messing with your converter lockup functions.
Also, add some timing to the extreme low end of your idle timing table and hi/low octane timing tables. Get the timing to about 20-22* in the 0-1200 columns and first 4 rows. That should help to smooth out idle some. You may need to alter VE in that same range, but lets just hold off on that for now. That cam should be fine without many tuning changes.
Also, add some timing to the extreme low end of your idle timing table and hi/low octane timing tables. Get the timing to about 20-22* in the 0-1200 columns and first 4 rows. That should help to smooth out idle some. You may need to alter VE in that same range, but lets just hold off on that for now. That cam should be fine without many tuning changes.
#30
Any GMC or Chevrolet dealer should be able to update the pcm for you. A word of warning though, if you update at a dealer and you have previously installed edit on your pcm, the next time you try to run edit it will not recognize the pcm. I think Flyer had this problem.


