OK so here's the problem, It don't work no more! A few questions 1.How do I tell if my bottle is empty, and using it with a 150 shot for approximately 10 sec at a time how many times should I get out of a bottle ( 10 lbs.) Next I switched from the 33 fuel jet to a 35 ( I was nervous about running lean) is it a good idea ?could this have dropped my Fuel pressure enough to kill the system and lastly do I need a fuel pump I hope not my budget is low right now or can I adjust the Fuel pressure safety switch down just a pinch?????

 

A 10lb bottle will weigh 14.7lbs empty. 24.7+/- full. You need to get a pressure gauge on that thing. And yes running lean can be a bad thing. Do you have a wet kit ? Your fuel pump should be ok for up to 150 shot. Do you have a window switch on it ?

 

150 HP will make short use of a 10# bottle.

At a flow rate of 6#/min (150 HP) you will have 96 secs of theortical operation. This is about 7 full 1/4 mile passes. However, in reality, those last two pounds of nitrous (or 20% of what ever volume storage container you have) are not all that usable. Maintaining proper bottle pressure with <20% of you N2O supply will be difficult with operation over 5 sec bursts. Consider 5 full passes the norm for a 10# bottle.

You should be able to tell that you are running low in a wet kit when the vehicle "studders" after inital acivation or appears to "surge." You may still "hit" with inital activation and then the power tapers off very quickly.

Once you get used to the consumption rate you will be more comfortable in identifing when "your done." Just use some caution as once the nitrous is out if you continue to activate teh nitrous you are dumping raw un atomized fuel in your intake and HOPING that all is pulled through the runners and not puddling in your plenum. Be careful in this situation, especially without a WOT switch.

As far as running more fuel to be safe... .002" isn't bad but it isn't good either. Do you still run OEM cats? Use the right tuning for your vehicle and eliminate the guesswork.

I know I'm not close but I can help with your "baseline" tuning and let you know how your motor is really responding to the nitrous you're using. I have a multitude of scanning equipment available and maybe you can meet me up at the shop one day and save some of that trip to South Orange County. The shop is up off the 605/210 area...Morovia/Arcadia. PM me if your interested.

Richard

 

ON my 150 NX kit on the Formula, it would make 2- GOOD passes, 1-2 full passes but with a little less mph and et gain, then 2-3 2nd or 3rd gear shots and then the bottle was toast. 10lb bottle. I would guess 4 full passes, first two being faster. Get an extra bottle or a 20lb bottle. I also had a 100hp dry kit on the Formula with the 20lb bottle. If I could keep the bottle pressure up, I would get about 5-7 full passes and about 4-5 partial passes like 3rd or 4th gear, or some freeway racing. It would last a while on the small dry shot. Main thing is keeping your bottle pressure between 900-1000psi. Anything under 900 and its crap. Anything over 1100 and you run the risk of the solinoids locking up or pressurizing the nitrous liquid into gas vapors in the bottle, then when you hit the button, it hits hard immediately but with peter out quick and not make at much power. I liked 975psi best on both kits. On a wet kit though, bottle pressure is even more important because the incoming fuel will easily over mix if the bottle pressure is not atleast 900. Get an electric bottle warmer and a gauge. NX makes a bottle warmer with a pressure sensor that keeps the bottle at a constant 950psi or so. It RULES!

 

My suggestion of the WOT switch is not to be taken as a an "in lieu of" but in conjunction with. I understand the benefits of a button, but a button without a WOT in series is a little risky.
The cat question was a longevity issue. Prolonged heavy usage will burn up the cats prematurely...the factory fuel tune is such that some extra fuel is added just for the purpose of keeping the cataylst within correct operational temp.
The fuel pump should be fine to support ~450 RWHP. Outside temp will have little effect on fuel pressure.

Richard

 

Sounds loke my bottle is probably spent! thanx fellas, oxidizer, I still run the stock cats how should this affect my tuning? I don't use a WOT switch for fear of spinning tires real bad and also I don't want to spray thru my shifts, so I have an activation switch (push button) inside that I hit aroun 3000 RPM and let up at the shift pionts momentarily, Boy I expected the bottle to last longer than that but I guess not it is a wet kit should the fuel pump be ok and will the outside temp, affect the fuel pressure at all?