I have a 5.3 Tahoe with three broken manifold bolts. They have never been touched.. 160k miles w/small 212/218 cam. Need long tubes now..

if I remove the fender liners, how clear of an access do I have to the rear most bolts (closest to firewall)? I'd rather drill these out myself with a left hand bit, seeing as how they broke less than flush. Local shop wants $350 PER SIDE! And how hard is it to actually get these broken bolts out?

 

If it's anything like my Silverado, its a pretty straight shot. Depending on which bolts are broken, you should be able to get to them.

As far as how hard they will be to get out, removing broken bolt it my very least favorite thing to do, because it always is more of a pain in the *** then you expect, even if you plan for the worst.

 

Use the welder trick to get them out. Much easier than messing with drill bits and easy-outs.

 

If you're talking about welding an oversized nut on the broken bolt, it can't happen. They're broken too far into the head unfortunately.. Unless you know another trick.

 

Weld a nut. The weld won't stick to the aluminum.

You weld straight through the middle to whats left of the bolt. Even if its sitting below the surface.

 

I didnt even think of that. I'll have to give that a shot then. I'd be so happy to do it myself than the shop for $700.

As far as clearance goes, I should have a pretty clear view of the bolts closest to firewall? What about a straight shot for drilling? (if it comes to that)

 

Have any of you ever seen this? Thoughts?

Kral Auto Parts LLC 507-354-1945 New Ulm, MN - Home

 

I dont see how you would be able to weld anything to those bolts...plus if you **** up the threads your making the extraction harder.
Spray them with penetrant multiple times over a weeks period and use a good screw extractor set (expensive stuff is suggested..heads will have to be removed if you snap one in the bolt) to take them out after a few good love taps. Heat the **** out of them before you try to back them out. Aluminum gets more "fluid" when its hot (wait till the aluminum cools completely to torque in another bolt).

 

welding is your best bet. trust me. this is the way I always do it and always with success. hold a 3/8 washer with pliers against the head centered with the hole. set your mig settings for 3/16 steel. aim your wire straight through the washer at the end of the bolt and squeaze the trigger untill the hole in the washer is filled. u may wanna make a tiny circle after the initial arc. then weld a nut of your choice to the washer. let cool. spin it out. if you have never done this or suck at welding it might take you a few tries. but it will work and you wont damage anything

 

Welding through the washer to the end of the bolt won't cause harm to the heads or the threads in the head? I'm pretty nervous to start on this job and not be able to get those bolts out because this thing is my daily driver.