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LS2 402 help

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Old Jan 31, 2006 | 09:48 PM
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Default LS2 402 help

Hey guys, I have a 2003 silverado ss. Im pretty close to doing a ls2 402 (plus nitrous eventually) from scoggin dickey. There standard short block comes:

Short block break down
*LS2 aluminum block (4.000 bore)
*Eagle 4.000 stroke crank
*Scat 6.125 H beam LS1 specific rods
*Diamond forged pistons
*Diamond file fit rings
*Clevitte 77 rod and main bearings
***Balanced & assembled***

Also with every short block comes....
**LS2 parts:
*front cover
*SDPC billet timming set w/torington bearing
*cam sensor
*front cover
*front seal & gasket
*valley cover
They told me they could do a short block (I will most likely do this short block) with a hell fire ring kit, custom pistons (with a thicker crown), Callies Crank, Callies rods for about $5,200. They also have an ls2 intake conversion kit for an additional $1,375 which includes ls2 intake, ls2 fuel rails injector 0 ring kit, TPIS 90 mm throttle body and billet throttle cable bracket.


My questions are: Ive been looking at ET heads for this application. Would a 255cc intake runner be to big? I was thinking they would work well.

Would I benifit from there ls2 intake conversion?

What benifits do you get from running ARP main studs and ARP head studs?

What would be a good CR for me with nitrous in mind? I was thinking 10.5:1.

Would 50lb injectors be enough for this application with nitrous?

Also, anybody in Ca now of a place that will do fake smogs?
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Old Jan 31, 2006 | 10:14 PM
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Id go at least 10.5:1 as high as 11.5:1 if youve got access to at least 93 octane not sure about what they sell in Cali.

For almost 1400 bucks I dont think the ls2 conversion is worth it, why do you need a conversion kit anyway? Id rather spend the money on a fast intake and direct port nitrous.

Why an ls2 block? Have they worked out the tuning kinks with the knock sensors? Not to familiar with the ls2 as I dismissed it as soon as I heard people were having to turn of the KR sensors to tune.

With High compression and lots of nitrous Id think the studs would be added insurance.

What cam/stall? This might help on deciding intake runner size.

Not sure about the injectors might depend on if you plan on spraying over a 150 shot.
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Old Jan 31, 2006 | 10:59 PM
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Originally Posted by 02sierraz71_5.3
Id go at least 10.5:1 as high as 11.5:1 if youve got access to at least 93 octane not sure about what they sell in Cali.

For almost 1400 bucks I dont think the ls2 conversion is worth it, why do you need a conversion kit anyway? Id rather spend the money on a fast intake and direct port nitrous.

Why an ls2 block? Have they worked out the tuning kinks with the knock sensors? Not to familiar with the ls2 as I dismissed it as soon as I heard people were having to turn of the KR sensors to tune.

With High compression and lots of nitrous Id think the studs would be added insurance.

What cam/stall? This might help on deciding intake runner size.

Not sure about the injectors might depend on if you plan on spraying over a 150 shot.
91 octane is the highest I can get out here. Yes the KR sensor issue has been solved. Not sure on a cam yet. Stall will most likely be a 2600, but will stall at about 3000. Do they have a fast intake and direct port nitrous that would work with the ls2?
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Old Jan 31, 2006 | 11:25 PM
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Originally Posted by adams2003
91 octane is the highest I can get out here. Yes the KR sensor issue has been solved. Not sure on a cam yet. Stall will most likely be a 2600, but will stall at about 3000. Do they have a fast intake and direct port nitrous that would work with the ls2?
I think they do have one, but dont quote me on it.

Since your going with a lower stall speed that means you cant be planning on a big cam and in that case I would go with a smaller set of heads no bigger than 225.
I havent been keeping up with the ls2 motors, when I was looking at them the numbers seemed very similar to an ls1 402-08. I was thinking about building a very similar nitrous setup in my truck. The custom pistons will help with the ring lands lower.
Whats the benefit of going with the newer block, besides getting to pay more?
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Old Jan 31, 2006 | 11:43 PM
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Originally Posted by 02sierraz71_5.3
I think they do have one, but dont quote me on it.

Since your going with a lower stall speed that means you cant be planning on a big cam and in that case I would go with a smaller set of heads no bigger than 225.
I havent been keeping up with the ls2 motors, when I was looking at them the numbers seemed very similar to an ls1 402-08. I was thinking about building a very similar nitrous setup in my truck. The custom pistons will help with the ring lands lower.
Whats the benefit of going with the newer block, besides getting to pay more?
I might just leave my 3000 stall in then and stall a bit higher. I would like to go with a pretty big cam. Im gonna talk to allan at futral motorsports and see what he recomends. Im thinking the duration will be in the 235-240 area. Would the 255's be to big if I had a big cam and a higher stall speed?

The numbers on the ls2's are pretty simular like you said. They do weigh about 100 lbs less though. That's the main reason im going with the ls2 block.
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Old Feb 2, 2006 | 12:27 AM
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Anybody?
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Old Feb 2, 2006 | 01:38 AM
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I have a 418 with DART 205s and a Lunati 237/242 112lsa and all I can say is go BIGGER. I will be switching to a set of those ET 255s like you are talking abotu and going to something in the high 240 range low 250 range. With my current setup and a stall that break stalls to 3K but when I floor it and let off the brake goes to almost 4k I cant get traction in 4hi till about 20mph. It has TOO much torque for street racing which is what Im building my truck for. Go for the big heads and big cam IMO. I learned the hard way and am going to have to spend more money because of it.
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Old Feb 2, 2006 | 06:16 AM
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I believe you could build a 402 based on a 6 liter block for a lot less money.
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Old Feb 2, 2006 | 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by 1slow01Z71
I have a 418 with DART 205s and a Lunati 237/242 112lsa and all I can say is go BIGGER. I will be switching to a set of those ET 255s like you are talking abotu and going to something in the high 240 range low 250 range. With my current setup and a stall that break stalls to 3K but when I floor it and let off the brake goes to almost 4k I cant get traction in 4hi till about 20mph. It has TOO much torque for <a style='text-decoration: none; border-bottom: 3px double;' href="http://www.qklinkserver.com/lm/rtl3.asp?si=92&k=street%20racing&st=1" onmouseover="window.status='Search for: street racing'; self.ql_skeyphrase='street%20racing'; if(window.event) self.ql_sevent=window.event.srcElement; self.ql_timeout = setTimeout('ql_doMouseOver(1)', 1000); self.ql_isOverLink=true; return true;" onclick="if(self.ql_timeout) clearTimeout(self.ql_timeout); self.ql_isOverTip = false; ql_closeiframe(); self.ql_skeyphrase='street%20racing'; window.status='Search for: street racing';return true;" onmouseout="window.status=''; if(self.ql_timeout) clearTimeout(self.ql_timeout); self.ql_isOverTip = false; setTimeout('ql_closeiframe()', 1500); ">street racing</a> which is what Im building my truck for. Go for the big heads and big cam IMO. I learned the hard way and am going to have to spend more money because of it.
Only bad thing about those ET heads is, there's about a 2 month wait on them.
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Old Feb 2, 2006 | 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by JimS
I believe you could build a 402 based on a 6 liter block for a lot less money.
True, but the ls2 block is going to save me 100 lbs.
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