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Lq4 built and started!......somethings not right

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Old Jan 31, 2020 | 02:27 AM
  #101  
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From: JunkYard
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On cylinder Number 3 the piston was making contact with the head. Looks like we found the noise...

Have you inspected the bottom end yet?
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Old Jan 31, 2020 | 07:02 AM
  #102  
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Originally Posted by willhorne22
My cam specs are 218/222 on a 110+3 .587/.578 nothing major.
LY6 rods and pistons.
NNBS intake manifold
8.1l injectors
ls3 throttle body
pac racing springs
trunnion rocker upgrade

milled heads .030
comp cam push rods
shorty headers

How much horsepower you think this motor will make?

2600-2800 stall converter
4l80e

Ah man that sucks but nothing on these trucks is really hard to work on especially if you have already messed with everything at least once.

Not sure what It will make but my Tahoe is had a little smaller cam and similar bolt ons. Its snappy and has a ton of torque. Should get those big tires moving well.
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Old Jan 31, 2020 | 07:04 AM
  #103  
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From: At the dump with a clutch
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Originally Posted by 1FastBrick
On cylinder Number 3 the piston was making contact with the head. Looks like we found the noise...

Have you inspected the bottom end yet?
Is this what your talking about?


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Old Jan 31, 2020 | 08:00 AM
  #104  
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It did smack the head a couple times. That was the one with the bad rod bearing. Pictures are somewhere in this thread. Installer error.

got a new rod installed on that piston and waiting on new crankshaft now.
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Old Jan 31, 2020 | 09:49 AM
  #105  
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Oh man, you've got me nervous about building mine now...
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Old Jan 31, 2020 | 10:36 AM
  #106  
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Originally Posted by Nick99Chevy
Oh man, you've got me nervous about building mine now...
long as you take your time, dont have any distractions (ball game on tv, kids wanting something, wife sending you out) you will be fine

make a sheet showing each step then check it off as you go to the next step, use a marker or paint pen to mark fasteners as you torque them. keeping track of whats torqued is very important! make sure things are lined up and you dont force things in place with a hammer (some times a light tap with a rubber mallet is needed on main caps) just make sure bearings are seated properly before you tap anything

these engine are not really hard to assembly dont be in a rush keep track of torqued fasteners, have a quality torque wrench, use a bunch of assembly lube and check clearances on all the main and rod bearings. dont over think it

Originally Posted by willhorne22
It did smack the head a couple times.
id take a good look at that piston make sure the top didnt bend or any thing check the top ring gap make sure its not tight
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Old Jan 31, 2020 | 12:20 PM
  #107  
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All great advice there! Also buy a good engine stand. I suggest the 2,000lb one at harbor freight. I used the 1,000 and it is part of the reason this happened to me. Its a long story but the 1k stand is scary and I didn't want to rotate the motor unless I absolutely had to.

Originally Posted by stroker87
long as you take your time, dont have any distractions (ball game on tv, kids wanting something, wife sending you out) you will be fine

make a sheet showing each step then check it off as you go to the next step, use a marker or paint pen to mark fasteners as you torque them. keeping track of whats torqued is very important! make sure things are lined up and you dont force things in place with a hammer (some times a light tap with a rubber mallet is needed on main caps) just make sure bearings are seated properly before you tap anything

these engine are not really hard to assembly dont be in a rush keep track of torqued fasteners, have a quality torque wrench, use a bunch of assembly lube and check clearances on all the main and rod bearings. dont over think it



id take a good look at that piston make sure the top didnt bend or any thing check the top ring gap make sure its not tight
I checked it. Thankfully everything is good. I dont think it hurt it because the rod was so damn loose lol
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Old Jan 31, 2020 | 12:23 PM
  #108  
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I used a 750lb engine stand for my 4.8l and it did the job just fine. You just really had to grab ahold of the block when you were rotating it over. These motors are much heavier then what I’m used to lol.
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Old Jan 31, 2020 | 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by T-RevMotorsports
I used a 750lb engine stand for my 4.8l and it did the job just fine. You just really had to grab ahold of the block when you were rotating it over. These motors are much heavier then what I’m used to lol.
yeah unless you have a stand with the hand crank that turns the engine over you really need to man handle it, i have the 1,000 lb stand and if i have no help i grab the block and turn it no way i can do it from the handle end once the crank is in
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Old Jan 31, 2020 | 01:24 PM
  #110  
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Originally Posted by T-RevMotorsports
I used a 750lb engine stand for my 4.8l and it did the job just fine. You just really had to grab ahold of the block when you were rotating it over. These motors are much heavier then what I’m used to lol.

this is my 1,000 pound one leaning like crazy



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