Hey guys,

I am buying a 2000 Silverado 5.3 auto, single cab short bed stepside. I really want to do a cam swap. I honestly don't care at all about how much HP or TQ it makes, I just want the most lopey idle possible. I really don't want to upgrade the torque converter or stall, just sounds like such a pain in the a**. What would you guys recommend for this? Best sound possible, just want a really sick idle. I am gunna through some long tubes and an intake on it as well. Also, this being my first LS motor, I am assuming it will need a tune. Since this seems to be a common swap, can I just get one of those diablosport programmers and have an LS tuner send me a email tune? Thanks a lot guys. I'm a diesel mechanic for the military, so I know how to turn a wrench or two.

 

For an everyday driver, look at cams that are in the 210-218 duration.

For lope, look at the LSA. A 112 LSA is chopping pretty good.

You can get an off the shelf cam if you're not picky. BTR would be my first stop.

For the cam install, figure a few hours. You'll need the following:

1. Related gaskets for water pump, Timing cover.
2. New water pump if the truck has some miles.
3. New 7.4 pushrods, also available from BTR.
4. New valve springs.
5. New valve stem seals.
6. New valve cover gaskets.
7. Gallon of Dexcool.
8. 2 3/8 wooden dowel rods cut to 22in. This will hold your lifters up. If one falls, you're pulling the head.

For tuning, I'd recommend a dyno tune. The handheld may work but it won't run near as well.

You'll also need a valve spring tool and air fitting to hold the valves up.

The above is assuming you choose a cam of less than .600 lift.

For parts, you're looking at about $1200. Give or take $200.

Putting a stall in is easier then the cam imo. With the right knowledge, tools, the cam or transmission can be out in 30min.

 

Awesome! Thank you for the reply Sir. I was looking at the texas speed 220 112 LSA cam. What exactly does the stall do for you? Help with the idle? Or help the thing shift better. Also, typically how much is a dyno tune for this kind of application?

 

The 220 may be OK with a stock stall but I wouldn't run it personally.

The converter is the medium between the engine and tranny. It's job is to transfer the engines power to the tranny.

With a stall, you're using a re-engineered component. The stall, or delay, comes in when your sitting still and you stomp on the gas. Depending on the stall, the truck won't move until it reaches its stall speed. For me, my stall is rated at 3200rpm. With the 372 in my truck, my 3200 stalls at about 3500 or so.

Torque affects stall. The more torque, in theory the higher the converter will stall.