I know that the Isuzu 6.0 is the same as the lq4, but I am wondering if anyone knows if they are effected by the 24x and 58x ignition changes. I have a '07 classic that I want to dump my 4.8 for a 6.0, and found a '0' mile 2009 Isuzu take out (it is an electric conversion). Will this thing work w/ my ignition and electronics? If it is the newer 58x, is there a way to change or adapt it? If no one knows, is there a way to tell by looking at it? The price is super cheap for a 6.0, especially since it has '0' miles.

 

wow i hadn't seen this before. i would think that it was the same.
http://www.isuzucv.com/engines/gas_index.html

 

I had no idea that Isuzu was using a Chevy LQ4...if it has a 58x reluctor wheel on it, Lingenfelter makes a harness/inverter that will convert 58x to 24x

 

Thanks for the insight guys.!! How do you tell which reluctor it has? I have never looked at one, and I understand that it is pressed to the crank, but is it external where te teeth could be counted?

 

All you have to do is Look at the Crank Sensor. Black is for the 24x Grey is for the 58x

 

cant you just replace the wheel and tune for 24x signal?

 

yes if you want to take the crank out of the engine to do that.

 

If the motor is already out, that should be fairly easy, plus it gives the opportunity to inspect some of the rotating assembly. I imagine that a signal converter would be just as effective though.

I thought it was more of a PITA. I was following a thread a while back on switching from a 4L60 to a 6L80 I think, and it was a fairly large nightmare because of the reluctor issues. Is that no longer an issue?

 

I think that with the introduction of Lingenfelter's converter box/harness, the reluctor issues should be solved. As for swapping reluctors, it's a littler more involved than it sounds. It has to be carefully pressed off of the crank, and has to be pressed on just right I believe...I think it has to be phased properly. Not to mention, some of the main cap bolts are torque to yield and can't be re-used, so replacing those bolts alone can get a little pricey.

 

The only bolt on the Bottom end that is torque to yeild and need's to be replaced is the Ballancer bolt. All other can be reused. The side main cap bolts need to installed with a little Hi temp silicone to prevent them from leaking oil.

The reluctor wheel has to be phased properly. Goodson makes the tool to do this but The tool alone cost about as much as the conversion box. Not to mention some times getting the wheel can be a PITA some times there out of stock and not easy to find. they usually run around $20-$25

In order to swap the reluctor wheel you heat the wheel were it contacts the crank and it pulls right off. same thing to put it on Pre heat heat it to the recomended heat which I believe was like 450* and slide it on using the tool to line it up.