Nick3800

I have a 00 Sierra with the 5.3. I went with the spectre intake which was on sale from Summit for $80, and a 93 octane tune. The 93 really woke up the truck, i also had the shifts firmed up. The tick you hear is the Gen3 piston slap that came with early LS engines its fine. Pending the price of 93 by you id go that route and see how you feel before you dump a ton into the truck

rj2

Yeah but man thats a slippery slope. The two we have now are fairly slow compared to whats normally in my driveway. And thats really just cause i havent had them very long. You get a cai headers and tune and soon youll say man that made a difference. I bet a cam would be nice. And then a few months later thatll wear off and youll be wanting more. And soon youll be running 10s and say. Man that was fun but what else can i do. Its just never fast enough.

Duntov1967

iTrader: (21)

You are correct. Actually it was the best. Results HERE

The stock air filter is more than capable of letting the stock or even mildly modified 5.3L breath. What robs the power is the sound baffles.

Well said. My 402ci L92 is starting to feel like a dog.

2007chevy5.3l

iTrader: (21)

My .02 about airraid is they heat soak really really really bad. Or atleast the one on my Girlfriends 09 silverado does. Idk about yalls weather but we have 100+ days and I recorded 130* IATs with her airraid and thats after sitting at lights for a few seconds, seems like they just suck the heat right in lol. I have logged my K&N and my friends Stock tube and box and have never seen anything near that high.

1FastBrick

iTrader: (17)

I am not saying this is the best cam for You but since its a daily driver and you have family to haul around its worth looking at the results. Its a proven choice that doesn't loose down low and doesn't need a stall converter. It's also mild enough that you don't need expensive springs.

https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...oughts-435536/

ScottyBoy

iTrader: (4)

I said I was a noob when it comes to performance add ons, but I know what piston slap/cold start knock is. Yes, I do have piston slap, but only during cold months. The lifter tick I was referring to is NOT piston slap. It soulds kind of like a valve ticking. It will only do it at idle, and if I rev it to over 1k rpms it goes away. Sometimes it will not tick at all. sometimes it will tick but then go away without me revving the engine. Everyone who has heard it says that its a lifter ticking.

wheeliE-maxx

Gearing down will help get it rolling, but you might need 2nd gear to pass with a load of people and junk on the interstate. Sucks being "between" gears when you need to roll out. My mom had a 5.3 2wd burb. It needed about 100 more cubes or some boost.

TX Tahoe Z71

iTrader: (28)

I lost a decent bit of low end but picked up a bunch above 3000rpm with long tubes, so something to consider. Look for a used Maggie mp112, plenty of low end grunt. I would skip the cat back and weld a magnaflow I place of stock, similar gains at 1/4 the price (that's what I did). Do a tune first and see where you stand, it makes a good bit of difference.

yurs78

You've hit the ceiling as far as cheap power goes. I've look at things for years and still haven't pulled the trigger. If you don't have a plan it will cost you a lot of money; which is fine but I don't make it as fast as I can spend it. I've watched time and time again, the second you change a cam or heads less than a year later they put on some form of FI (turbo or blower). Then the cam is wrong and your headers don't work with your turbo. That's $2,000 you won't get back; have a plan.

Cam/Heads/headers/exhaust/tune is all of $3,000 to do it right, but I don't think it will get you what you're looking for. Do it for less and I think you'll be even more disappointed.

Once you get past the tune and CAI and servos I think the only choice then is to pick up a used 1900 or a good turbo kit that specs out to your needs. Anything else is a waste of money and a step sideways. The down side is you're committed to spending a minimum of $6k - $7k just to make it all hold together.

You might put together a cheap turbo kit and get some good tuning with the stock 4L60E but it is inevitable. You'll get too happy one day beating on it and BOOM, now you're spending money you don't have.

I've thought heavily about building a 4L60E but it just doesn't sound like it will last with out great tuning. That won't work with me, I get stupid really fast and I know I'd blow it up. Spend the money on the 4L80E, it only eats up 15hp at the wheels so the strength you gain far outweighs your power loss.

Bottom line is be happy with what you've got. Don't jump in unless you've got at least $7,000 you can spend guilt free. I just can't right now; I'll have my build someday, but not today. This forum is great for me because I get to live my dreams on here!! Good luck with everything, I hope you find something that works.

ScottyBoy

iTrader: (4)

I have done more and research on this and it seems you guys are right on. I won't be satisfied with bolt on's and I will end up doing a motor swap. I have decided to just keep the Burban as is, and continue to use it as a family hauler. I plan on saving up and trying to get my hands on a RCSB and put a cammed 6.0 in it. That will be my "toy/ project vehicle" and this will continue to be my daily driver.