IAT Sensor Relocate with Pics
#14
On The Tree
iTrader: (1)
Yes, the MAF sensor gets heatsoaked and lies about IATs also, but really the closer you run the IAT sensor to the throttle body(or cylinder for the matter) the more accurate input is to the PCM... Also MAF IAT's are not as quick respoding to the temp changes. IMO... I will be installing a relocated IAT sensor into my EGR block off plate sometime soon..
#15
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (5)
I question the idea that the IAT sensor will be any more "responsive" than in the MAF.
Reasoning:
The thing that has always been pointed out to me by engine builders is to consider the actual time period that the air spends in contact with any one section. At WOT, the air speeds through any one part of the system makes temperature contact with that area is all but insignificant. Yes, SOME heat is bound to be transferred to/from the air/part but it's not by anything to even consider. People point to the plastic intakes as being "cooler" than aluminum, but that's bogus. In the end, the plastic intake will be just as hot, it just takes longer due to plastics rate of transfer. On the flip side, it takes longer to cool down plastic than it does aluminum so the "bag-O-ice" trick people do at the track is less effective on plastic. Plastic intakes are for WEIGHT REDUCTION.
If you consider the MAF as being "heatsoaked", then that metal intake pipe will be just as "heatsoaked". In the end, it does not matter if it's plastic (MAF) or metal (intake tube), everything heats up. Even the little rubber grommet will "heatsoak", again, it just takes longer due to transfer rates.
I have watched the IAT sensor temps on my F-body (which uses this exact sensor mounted in the filter cover from the factory) and it DOES NOT change all that fast. It will "heat up" sitting in traffic or in a parking lot (100degrees) and then won't really change any for at least 30seconds-to-a min or so of driving. Then it slowly starts to drop down to atmospheric temps with constant driving (highway).
Conclusion:
IAT temps are all about the temperature of the housing and NOT the temperature of the air passing it itself (other than the air temp can raise or lower the housing temp).
Now that I have said all of that, I like you ingenuity. Based on personal experience, I can't imagine it really does anything but I'm open to being showed otherwise. IF it shows a positive result, then I hope to see the results as I'm always for improvements. Regardless, nice job on the install.
Reasoning:
The thing that has always been pointed out to me by engine builders is to consider the actual time period that the air spends in contact with any one section. At WOT, the air speeds through any one part of the system makes temperature contact with that area is all but insignificant. Yes, SOME heat is bound to be transferred to/from the air/part but it's not by anything to even consider. People point to the plastic intakes as being "cooler" than aluminum, but that's bogus. In the end, the plastic intake will be just as hot, it just takes longer due to plastics rate of transfer. On the flip side, it takes longer to cool down plastic than it does aluminum so the "bag-O-ice" trick people do at the track is less effective on plastic. Plastic intakes are for WEIGHT REDUCTION.
If you consider the MAF as being "heatsoaked", then that metal intake pipe will be just as "heatsoaked". In the end, it does not matter if it's plastic (MAF) or metal (intake tube), everything heats up. Even the little rubber grommet will "heatsoak", again, it just takes longer due to transfer rates.
I have watched the IAT sensor temps on my F-body (which uses this exact sensor mounted in the filter cover from the factory) and it DOES NOT change all that fast. It will "heat up" sitting in traffic or in a parking lot (100degrees) and then won't really change any for at least 30seconds-to-a min or so of driving. Then it slowly starts to drop down to atmospheric temps with constant driving (highway).
Conclusion:
IAT temps are all about the temperature of the housing and NOT the temperature of the air passing it itself (other than the air temp can raise or lower the housing temp).
Now that I have said all of that, I like you ingenuity. Based on personal experience, I can't imagine it really does anything but I'm open to being showed otherwise. IF it shows a positive result, then I hope to see the results as I'm always for improvements. Regardless, nice job on the install.
Last edited by 2001CamaroGuy; 06-29-2010 at 02:09 PM.
#16
On The Tree
iTrader: (1)
I question the idea that the IAT sensor will be any more "responsive" than in the MAF.
Reasoning:
The thing that has always been pointed out to me by engine builders is to consider the actual time period that the air spends in contact with any one section. At WOT, the air speeds through any one part of the system makes temperature contact with that area is all but insignificant. Yes, SOME heat is bound to be transferred to/from the air/part but it's not by anything to even consider. People point to the plastic intakes as being "cooler" than aluminum, but that's bogus. In the end, the plastic intake will be just as hot, it just takes longer due to plastics rate of transfer. On the flip side, it takes longer to cool down plastic than it does aluminum so the "bag-O-ice" trick people do at the track is less effective on plastic. Plastic intakes are for WEIGHT REDUCTION.
If you consider the MAF as being "heatsoaked", then that metal intake pipe will be just as "heatsoaked". In the end, it does not matter if it's plastic (MAF) or metal (intake tube), everything heats up. Even the little rubber grommet will "heatsoak", again, it just takes longer due to transfer rates.
I have watched the IAT sensor temps on my F-body (which uses this exact sensor mounted in the filter cover from the factory) and it DOES NOT change all that fast. It will "heat up" sitting in traffic or in a parking lot (100degrees) and then won't really change any for at least 30seconds-to-a min or so of driving. Then it slowly starts to drop down to atmospheric temps with constant driving (highway).
Conclusion:
IAT temps are all about the temperature of the housing and NOT the temperature of the air passing it itself (other than the air temp can raise or lower the housing temp).
Now that I have said all of that, I like you ingenuity. Based on personal experience, I can't imagine it really does anything but I'm open to being showed otherwise. IF it shows a positive result, then I hope to see the results as I'm always for improvements. Regardless, nice job on the install.
Reasoning:
The thing that has always been pointed out to me by engine builders is to consider the actual time period that the air spends in contact with any one section. At WOT, the air speeds through any one part of the system makes temperature contact with that area is all but insignificant. Yes, SOME heat is bound to be transferred to/from the air/part but it's not by anything to even consider. People point to the plastic intakes as being "cooler" than aluminum, but that's bogus. In the end, the plastic intake will be just as hot, it just takes longer due to plastics rate of transfer. On the flip side, it takes longer to cool down plastic than it does aluminum so the "bag-O-ice" trick people do at the track is less effective on plastic. Plastic intakes are for WEIGHT REDUCTION.
If you consider the MAF as being "heatsoaked", then that metal intake pipe will be just as "heatsoaked". In the end, it does not matter if it's plastic (MAF) or metal (intake tube), everything heats up. Even the little rubber grommet will "heatsoak", again, it just takes longer due to transfer rates.
I have watched the IAT sensor temps on my F-body (which uses this exact sensor mounted in the filter cover from the factory) and it DOES NOT change all that fast. It will "heat up" sitting in traffic or in a parking lot (100degrees) and then won't really change any for at least 30seconds-to-a min or so of driving. Then it slowly starts to drop down to atmospheric temps with constant driving (highway).
Conclusion:
IAT temps are all about the temperature of the housing and NOT the temperature of the air passing it itself (other than the air temp can raise or lower the housing temp).
Now that I have said all of that, I like you ingenuity. Based on personal experience, I can't imagine it really does anything but I'm open to being showed otherwise. IF it shows a positive result, then I hope to see the results as I'm always for improvements. Regardless, nice job on the install.
#17
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (5)
I was mostly point out against the implied idea that a stand alone IAT would somehow be rapid responding/instantaneous, which I know it to not be (as I said, it takes at best 30second to a min to see a change).
I'd be curious to see some numbers.
#18
Real clean install, nice work! I have wire connectors at my work that are like the ones you used, ours have solder in the center that melts to make good conection to both wires, also has the shrink wrap on both ends.
#19
On The Tree
iTrader: (1)
For sure, I think the key is the IAT sensors without the crap covering the measuring wire, (unlike the one in this post), I hear they're quicker, but I'd still like to see the differences with this guys version of the sensor compared to stock and like you said, I know neither one is going to be spilt second haha..
#20
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (5)
For sure, I think the key is the IAT sensors without the crap covering the measuring wire, (unlike the one in this post), I hear they're quicker, but I'd still like to see the differences with this guys version of the sensor compared to stock and like you said, I know neither one is going to be spilt second haha..