If you are using a stud kit,I would try backing the head bolts off about a 1/2 turn each then retorque them in the correct sequence they'll probably reseal.Those high dollar gaskets are supposed to be reusable.

 

hmm, i think i will try that, cant hurt

 

You might even try a little more torque on them, like 5 more pounds ????

 

If you used lube on studs, you're not getting an accurate torque reading.

 

what exactly does that mean? i followed the directions that came with the studs and used the lube that came with the studs.

 

Parish,I'm from the generation that built motors with copper head gaskets and retorqued them after bringing the motor up to temp and letting it cool.Those old copper gasket would seal a leak most of the time.I don't see any reason the Cometics wouldn't do the same.Does Cometic use the same torque specs as a stock head gasket?With the ARP stud kit you might consider increasing the torque to the high side of the suggested torque,then bump them about 5lbs each.

 

ls1howto.com suggests torqueing them to something like 60 or 70 I think if you use the head studs. I followed the directions on there. If I'm not mistaken, the directions with the studs said torque them to 10 lbs less than original specs. I didn't pay much attn to the directions with the studs, but went by what ls1howto said.

I would give them a good check and maybe a little more pressure.

 

i retorqed them, they wern't really loose though, the arp instructions said 70ft/lbs when using their lube, i got to about 75ft/lbs before they budged and then it was more of a snaping, not smooth at all like when i just put them on, i think all the molly lube is gone. anyways i got about another 1/8th turn on each. going to take a few days to know if it helped.

 

Did you back the nuts off first?That's the way we used to retorque the nuts back them off about 1/2 a turn then tighten them to spec.75lbs. should be plenty tight.

 

That would probably keep them from popping like you were saying too.