I love my cam!!!
09-04-2005, 03:27 PM
#11
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Sounds good man! For future reference you don't need to mess with the condenser. The cam will go in and out with it still fully installed.
As for the ACE hardware tool, that's what I used!
Be nice to those tires too!
As for the ACE hardware tool, that's what I used!
Be nice to those tires too!
09-04-2005, 10:29 PM
#13
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Thunder I know you tow alot, whats your approximate weight of your load? I have always been interested in a cam, but do not want to lose torque. I will eventually get a radix, so maybe torque wont be an issue after that.
I tow about 8000lbs with my truck, I need as much tq as possible. Give me some opinions of it towing?
Thanks
I tow about 8000lbs with my truck, I need as much tq as possible. Give me some opinions of it towing?
Thanks
09-04-2005, 11:14 PM
#15
Originally Posted by phasemaster1
hey nice pics of work how did you keep crank from spining? you remove starter?
You just reminded me......
Thunder550, if you are spinning that motor faster than the 5500 stock cam redline you may want to consider pinning the crank. Cheap insurance!!!
09-05-2005, 04:43 AM
#16
OCBC - I haven't towed yet, might do it tomorrow, otherwise by the end of the week. I will keep you posted. The trailer is about 6000 lb.
phasemaster - I have a large wrench that I wedged between one of the spokes on the crank and the bottom of the block to keep the crank from spinning when I loosened the bolt. Same thing when tightening.
BlownChevy - I haven't raised the limiter...still shifts at about 5500-5700. How much is a crank pinning kit though? And what is involved in the install? It may be worth it for peace of mind.
mjhoward - I watched the boost gauge at WOT top-end shift, and it was at 8 psi. I must have read wrong the other day. 9 psi max, 8 psi up top.
One other question...I was pulling 18 hg-in vacuum before the swap, now it's closer to 16. Is this normal for the cam or did I pop loose a vacuum line somewhere?
phasemaster - I have a large wrench that I wedged between one of the spokes on the crank and the bottom of the block to keep the crank from spinning when I loosened the bolt. Same thing when tightening.
BlownChevy - I haven't raised the limiter...still shifts at about 5500-5700. How much is a crank pinning kit though? And what is involved in the install? It may be worth it for peace of mind.
mjhoward - I watched the boost gauge at WOT top-end shift, and it was at 8 psi. I must have read wrong the other day. 9 psi max, 8 psi up top.
One other question...I was pulling 18 hg-in vacuum before the swap, now it's closer to 16. Is this normal for the cam or did I pop loose a vacuum line somewhere?
09-05-2005, 06:03 AM
#17
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The more duration on the intake side of a cam will cause the drop in vacume, due to more overlap(intake and exhaust being open at the same time). That is normal. Mine is 13" at idle. The intake valve opening sooner in the transfer from the exhaust stroke to the intake stroke causes a little gas to leak past the intake valve and into the intake runner. Thus causing a pulsing of the intake charge in the runner and lowering your vacume and causing a "choppy idle". It is all about valve timing. An exhaust valve closing later does the same thing. Overlap is usually a combination of both. The more duration will cause the cylinder to be more efficient in the higher rpm band and less effecient in the lower.
