I hate putting lifters in :-( (pics)
Aug 31, 2005 | 07:26 PM
#11
Originally Posted by 1slow01Z71
Oh yeah anybody got any advice on the easiest way to put the heads on since they are such PITA. Havent ever put a set of these heads on a motor. I should have gotten the ARP stuff but I have to have it back together by tomorrow night so I can drive back to Texas. 
I started out just using my socket and ratchet, and nearly died. Put the cheater pipe on there and made things a lot easeir.
Aug 31, 2005 | 07:28 PM
#12
Originally Posted by BigBlockChev572
The clearance between the pump housing and crank "snout". If not gapped properly it can cause uneven wear of the pump. You're supposed to install two of the bolts diagonal from each other loosely and put two feeler gauges at .002 and spin them around to make sure the pump is centered, then tighten up the bolts and install the other two. I did it, it was a PITA, had to redo it like 3 times, I still don't know if I have it all aligned 100%. It's hard to do it by yourself like I did.
Philip S.
Philip S.
Sep 1, 2005 | 06:25 AM
#13
Thread Starter
Tin Foil Hat Wearin' Fool
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From: Austin, TX
Yup I just bolted mine on too and all that **** is NOT coming back off. Ill deal with the problem later on down the road. I got the heads and intake back on last night. Tonight I should have it running just need to bolt the exhaust up, cooling system and all the bracket bs on the front of the engine. 
Tonight I should have it running just need to bolt the exhaust up, cooling system and all the bracket bs on the front of the engine.
Sep 1, 2005 | 09:08 AM
#14
Originally Posted by 1slow01Z71
Yup I just bolted mine on too and all that **** is NOT coming back off.
Keep us updated. Congrats on getting everything together!Philip S.
Sep 1, 2005 | 10:50 AM
#16
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Tin Foil Hat Wearin' Fool
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From: Austin, TX
NOt bad at all the back two skinny bolts right by the bellhousing run them almost all the way out but not quite take the two bottom bolts out of the bellhousing and then take all the rest of the little ones out there are two on top of the front differential that are a PITA but after you get those out the oil pan will drop down and rest on the cross member down there and oyu have to take the skid plate off too to get to the bolts. Takes about 30 min to drop it.
Sep 1, 2005 | 10:52 AM
#17
Thread Starter
Tin Foil Hat Wearin' Fool
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From: Austin, TX
Oh I see you need to take it all the wya off in that case just take the two long skinny bolts all the way out and you will have to lift the deep part of the oil pan up and over the crossmember but it shoulfnt be too hard I just dropped mine down to take the oil pump off I would suggest a pin magnet between the block and the oil pan to fish around for the bolt or nut that you dropped instead of having to pull it all the way.
Sep 1, 2005 | 12:39 PM
#19
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Tin Foil Hat Wearin' Fool
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From: Austin, TX
No problem man wont take long but you will definately need a wiggle joint. Make sure you are extremely easy putting the two thin long bolts at the back of the oil pan back in their torque spec is only like 9 ft-lbs so you can break one VERY easily.
Sep 1, 2005 | 12:50 PM
#20
Originally Posted by 1slow01Z71
No problem man wont take long but you will definately need a wiggle joint. Make sure you are extremely easy putting the two thin long bolts at the back of the oil pan back in their torque spec is only like 9 ft-lbs so you can break one VERY easily.
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