I hate putting lifters in :-( (pics)
#1
I hate putting lifters in :-( (pics)
Well me and MjHoward thought we could knock out a bunch of the work on my cam swap and well it didn’t go so well. Figured out we had to pull the heads to pull the lifters out and damn they are such a PITA. Got he cam and new lifters back in last night so we are making some headway. I got up early and worked all day yesterday so at midnight last night after sitting in my engine bay for most of the night I was tired and exhausted and I wasn’t paying attention and broke the damn bolt that holds the lifter tray down off in the block. That was fun getting it out but Mark got it, I didn’t have the patience to mess with it. Anyway next up tonight is the LS6 ported oil pump, new timing chain, putting the heads back on with the new springs and try and put some of the front end of the engine back together. You have to loosen the bolts on the oil pan to get the oil pickup tube out right? Hopefully we can finish it up by tomorrow night so I can go back to Texas. The cylinder walls you can actually still see the honing marks from the factory. The heads and intake had a **** load of buildup in them and were pretty darn nasty. I really wish I had the money to get a nice set of heads right now but its just not going to happen. This motor stuff is really fun!
#5
Yes, don't just loosen the oil pan bolts. Remove all of them and let the pan fall down as far as it will go. Trust me! Bending the pan down to get the bolt in and out is BS and I dropped my oil pump bolt in the pan took me about an hour of fishing to get it out. It will also give more movement to line the pick up tube to not pinch the oil pump o-ring. Take your time here. Also the gaps for the oil pump are .002. I have a bad lifter, but I don't want to replace it... for obvious reasons
Philip S.
Philip S.
#6
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Originally Posted by BigBlockChev572
Yes, don't just loosen the oil pan bolts. Remove all of them and let the pan fall down as far as it will go. Trust me! Bending the pan down to get the bolt in and out is BS and I dropped my oil pump bolt in the pan took me about an hour of fishing to get it out. It will also give more movement to line the pick up tube to not pinch the oil pump o-ring. Take your time here. Also the gaps for the oil pump are .002. I have a bad lifter, but I don't want to replace it... for obvious reasons
Philip S.
Philip S.
I might be a little late at saying this, but I'd even put a new oil pump oring on there. I mean there only like $5. I'd rather pay that than all the pain and misery I went through. Oh, on those two long skinny oil pan bolts in the back, don't tighten them up too much, they don't like being tightened up too much.
Oh yeah, one last thing, have even more fun bolting those heads back down . Nearly killed me. .
#7
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Originally Posted by chevyerett
^^^^
Oh yeah, one last thing, have even more fun bolting those heads back down . Nearly killed me. .
Oh yeah, one last thing, have even more fun bolting those heads back down . Nearly killed me. .
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#8
Got the new ls6 pump on with NEW o-ring and the new timing chain and gears. Damn chevy dealership gave me the wrong vlave guide seals. Tonight will be fun putting the heads back on. I already have the torque to yeild bolts though. What do you mean by the gap for th oil pump is .002 I just bolted the damn thing back up and torqued them to spec.
#9
Oh yeah anybody got any advice on the easiest way to put the heads on since they are such PITA. Havent ever put a set of these heads on a motor. I should have gotten the ARP stuff but I have to have it back together by tomorrow night so I can drive back to Texas.
#10
Originally Posted by 1slow01Z71
What do you mean by the gap for th oil pump is .002 I just bolted the damn thing back up and torqued them to spec.
Philip S.