TIM Z

iTrader: (12)

Man i would like to get a set of LT's and a ORY.

See lots of you guys doing it.

Honestley. How hard is the install?

How hard is it to get the plugs in?

Hell my rear plug on the pass side with stock manifolds sucks changing.

I feel with my combo i would benefit from hedders. Just dont want the usual headaches involved with them.

Any info is appreciated. Thanks.

I m thinking of the Ebay OBX or similar?

Cooder5.3

Dude, they are pretty simple to install. The hardest part is taking off the stack stuff. Sparks plugs aren't bad. The #8 cyclinder is still kind of a pain in the ***, but the headers do free up some space to get in there.

silver-mod-o

iTrader: (15)

I've installed probably 18-20 sets of pacesetters and ORYs and none of them have been too bad. Like he mentioned, getting the manifolds and stock Y out of the way is the biggest headache. Do yourself a favor and start soaking all the exhaust hardware in penetrating oil (when the parts are still warm, NOT hot) once a day about a week prior to the install... Makes it a breeze. I use KROIL penetrating oil for everything... Never used anything better, makes WD, and PB look like tap water.

white1

iTrader: (5)

I thought about writing a review on the OBXs but figured there were plenty out there already.

I just installed mine the other day, it took about 2 hrs start to finish.

On my White truck, the pacesetters took a bit longer, but that was mostly due to getting the stock stuff off.
Breaking loose the manifold and Y pipe bolts by far is the worst part. With the Pacesetters on my 4x4, one went in from the top and the other from the bottom. With the OBXs they both went in from the bottom.
The only ugh oh I had on the blue truck was getting the oil dipstick tube out. In fact, it didnt come out, and broke off right at the block instead

Other than that, it was very easy. I personally would suggest getting a new set of plugs and wires, as up until this last install, Ive never been able to remove all the wires on a high mileage engine without destroying at least one wire, and never been able to remove the manifolds, or install the headers without breaking at least one plug. If your not as lazy as me and remove them first you dont have to worry about that though lol. IMO if youre pulling them anyway, why not swap them out.

The only issues I have with the actual headers, is that mine are both very close to the frame rails. The one on the driver side actually touches very lightly at low RPM such as pulling in a parking place. Not bad at all, but it does. Also the Y pipe isnt perfect and has just a small leak where the two pieces connect. Ill probably ditch the U bolts and use band clamps to remedy that

outlawz2004

iTrader: (18)

good advice. I started a week before and the bolts just breezed right out. Heres some other advice for you, start with the hardest to reach bolts first on the manifolds, that way you are doing them when you are fresh and not hot and frustrated.LOL. I loosened all of mine just a little before removing any just to make sure all of them would come out and werent seized.

TIM Z

iTrader: (12)

Man you guys are cool!

Thanks everyone for the time spent posting

i know headder threads get posted daily.

Luckily i just put plugs in for my blower, and had the exhaust apart about a month or so ago when i did the 6.0 swap.

You guys have given me the confidence to do it. I know i could, just tired of headaches and such. Want a smooth install LOL!!!


You guys using the stock manifold bolts to bolt up the headders?

outlawz2004

iTrader: (18)

I used the stock manifold bolts and they worked great, never loosened up either and its been over three years. You can also use the stock gaskets as well, I didnt. I used the paperones that came with the headers and to this day I have not had a leak, I guess I am lucky because not many have been lucky with the paper filters. Just reuse the stock gaskets for a good seal.

budhayes3

iTrader: (19)

It's a pretty straight forward R&R Tim, as long as no bolts break off in the head and the dipstick tube comes out without snapping down in the block. Aside from those possibilities, it usually goes pretty smoothly. As mentioned, spray the bolts down with rust penetrant for a few days prior to the install to help prep the fasteners for removal

D_reks{5.3}

iTrader: (13)

As the rest said, the hardest part is pulling the manifolds and y off. Once those are off it goes smooth. And yes the plugs can be a bitch to get at. Also use some PB blaster of some sort like said, It will help you out alot.

budhayes3

iTrader: (19)

Oh yea, almost forgot to mention the plugs...do yourself a favor and remove the plugs first, it will give you a lot more room to work and if you try to do the headers with the plugs in, chances are that you'll end up with some broken or cracked plugs. Swapping the plugs is easy IMO, hardest one is number 8 on the passenger side, which I usually get with a short wobble extension or universal joint. Also, put anti-seize on the threads of the plugs and all of the header bolts going into the heads, you'll thank yourself the next time you go to swap plugs or remove the manifold bolts. Whatever headers you get, take the gaskets that come with them and throw them in the garbage and get a new set of the factory metal gaskets and use those...guys have even reused their originals, but it's worth it to get some new ones