anyone that has done a 6.0 swap, did you have any issues with the trans? the crank in my 6.0 is about 1/2 inch longer than the 4.8/5.3 and the flexplate won't work off either one. HELP! i want to drive my truck again. <img border="0" alt="[bang head]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_banghead.gif" />

 

Get in touch with Parish8 and BigTex. If you got hold of a 99 6.0, I think they used a longer crank and I don't remember why. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Frown]" src="gr_sad.gif" />

 

big tex came by earlier and said something about having the crank machined down and i am not into doing that. any other suggestions?

 

See if you can locate a flexplate from a 99 6.0 2500 HD.

 

Since the crank is longer couldn't you just get a flexplate and converter from a '99 truck? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />

What does the starter alignment look like? Why won't the other flexplates work, what is causing a conflict with them?

Sorry to hear you found this out the hard way. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Frown]" src="gr_sad.gif" />

John

 

I was afraid of that. When I saw those perimeter bolt valve covers, I knew something was fishy.

I checked with my buddy who has done the same thing (Gonzo). He said the crank will be 1/4" - 1/2" longer than needed. Maybe he will shed some further light on this subject. The way I understand it, the 99-00 LQ4 trucks came with iron heads and had a crank that is too long. It mated up fine with a 4L80, but not a 4L60.

Your first choice should be to head up to Oklahoma and find the seller who sold you that engine. You should also try and get a set of 6 liter heads out of him. They are much more valuable.

Either machine down the crank snout or you can get a crank that will fit your 6L block.

*****
We emailed that seller in June of 02. The motor listed on Ebay had early style heads. We asked if it had the correct crank to bolt onto a LS1 or 1/2 ton chevy with no modifications and let him know the early ones wouldn't fit properly. Is this the same guy you bought the motor from? Here is his response:
<strong>
Hi,
Well, we just learned yesterday this same thing. The rear flange where the
flywheel bolts and the front nose both are slightly longer on the '00 6.0.
We had to change the crank in another unit we were installing in an F body.
Since we have several 5.7 cranks on hand, it wasn't a problem. If someone
buys this, we'll swap the crank if needed.

Thanks for the confirmation.

Regards,
Jim Leonard
Ariel Performance Products
(405) 491-2535 </strong>

This proves he knew about the incompatibility of the cranks. Date was: Friday, June 28, 2002 3:35 PM
Auction was: Question for seller -- Item #1839424268

Good luck
Richard

 

THANKS JIM!! NOT!! I BOUGHT THAT MOTOR FROM YOU ABOUT SIX MONTHS OR SO AGO AND AM JUST NOW PUTTING IT IN MY TRUCK. WISH I KNEW THAT SOONER. I WILL CALL YOU TOMORROW AS I HAVE SOME OTHER ISSUES I NEED TO DISCUSS WITH YOU.

 

<img border="0" alt="[evil]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_devil.gif" />
Go get em Tiger!
<img border="0" alt="[punch]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_punch.gif" />

 

The crank you have sticks past the rear seal about 1/2inch, the correct LS1 crank that you need sticks past the seal about 1/16th on an inch. I have heard of someone machining the end of the crank but i wouldnt do it.You need to find a 5.3 or a 5.7 or 2001 on up 6.0 crank.The crank has to come out there is no other way.The crank you have is to fit behind a 4L80E, the newer 6.0s have a spacer to work with the 4L80es.I would get on the horn with the seller,he knows what you are up against because Tex and myself emailed him and he knew, BTW good find Tex.

 

i bought mine august 23 of 2002, and yes, that is the same guy. man did i get screwed and didn't even get a kiss! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Mad]" src="gr_images/icons/mad.gif" />