Heads/Cam going in tomorrow !!....Here's the plan...
#1
I'm gonna try and cheat a little while doing this so I can save myself some work....here's what I have in mind:
1) I'm NOT going to remove the intake manifold....I'm just going to prop it up on blocks so I can get to the upper head bolts, the intake removal is THE worst part of this whole install in my opinion
2) I'm gonna try to keep the radiator IN the truck.....all the extra lines that are attaced to the thing will make it a pain in the *** to remove, as long as I prop it up high enough I should be able to get the cam out below it without too much of a problem
3) I want to try and leave the alt/power-steering bracket ON the block.....as long as I unbolt it from the head it should be able to just stay there without issue right ??
Any suggestions ???
1) I'm NOT going to remove the intake manifold....I'm just going to prop it up on blocks so I can get to the upper head bolts, the intake removal is THE worst part of this whole install in my opinion
2) I'm gonna try to keep the radiator IN the truck.....all the extra lines that are attaced to the thing will make it a pain in the *** to remove, as long as I prop it up high enough I should be able to get the cam out below it without too much of a problem
3) I want to try and leave the alt/power-steering bracket ON the block.....as long as I unbolt it from the head it should be able to just stay there without issue right ??
Any suggestions ???
#3
2: Yeah, If your truck is like mine - you can leave the radiator in there and just prop it up.
I used a 4x4" block of wood on the passenger side, and an empty windshield washer fluid gallon jug on the drivers. I left all of the lines attached, except for the obvious engine coolant lines. As you might notice from the pic, I even left my e-fans all wired up. (they're all soldered in, and I didn't want to cut anything)
I used a 4x4" block of wood on the passenger side, and an empty windshield washer fluid gallon jug on the drivers. I left all of the lines attached, except for the obvious engine coolant lines. As you might notice from the pic, I even left my e-fans all wired up. (they're all soldered in, and I didn't want to cut anything)
#4
Also, I don't remember seeing this mentioned in any how-to's... but it's not as important with you as you have access to the lifters... but... You'll need to use those water pump bolts to get the cam started out of the block. After you can get a good grip on the cam itself, remove those bolts because they'll end up contacting the AC condensor JUST short of letting the cam out of the block.
It's a stressfull thing to run into when you're playing russian roulette with the lifters on your first swap.
It's a stressfull thing to run into when you're playing russian roulette with the lifters on your first swap.
#6
Go ahead and pull the intake. It won't take that much longer - just pull the injector plugs, fuel lines, move the harness over and unbolt it. You'll end up saving time and make fewer mistakes than trying to work around it.
Leave the radiator, just prop it up, swap the cam, then let it down. Its no problem.
Good luck!
Leave the radiator, just prop it up, swap the cam, then let it down. Its no problem.
Good luck!
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#8
Originally Posted by BigTex
Go ahead and pull the intake. It won't take that much longer - just pull the injector plugs, fuel lines, move the harness over and unbolt it. You'll end up saving time and make fewer mistakes than trying to work around it.
Leave the radiator, just prop it up, swap the cam, then let it down. Its no problem.
Good luck!
Leave the radiator, just prop it up, swap the cam, then let it down. Its no problem.
Good luck!
#9
Originally Posted by Yelo
marc_w: THANK YOU,
I'm really anxious to hear how you like the cam in your 6.0. I've been driving/tuning MAFless for a few weeks here, and I have a very decent part-throttle-tune nailed down. If you have access to your tune, I can definitely send you some numbers to plug in as a starting point. We seem to have fairly similar setups...






