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Header install with header studs - any issues?

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Old Oct 30, 2015 | 02:11 PM
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zblee's Avatar
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Default Header install with header studs - any issues?

I have had some bad luck when it comes to header bolts so I am thinking about switching over to some ARP header studs when I do a cam/head swap. My concern is that the space is already pretty tight in my 2003 silverado 5.3 engine bay when sticking the headers up from underneath and lining them up . My question is, are the header studs short enough to allow the headers to get moved on to them without removing any other items? with header bolts the only thing I had to remove/unbolt where some bars (not sure what they are ) underneath and a driver side heat shield . I really do not want to have to move the steering shaft or anything like that.

Anyone out there have experience with header studs?

thanks again
_Zblee
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Old Oct 30, 2015 | 02:25 PM
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Hey I just did mine like two weeks ago on a 03 4.8, use an air rachet for the bolts up against the firewall, I used an air rachet for all of the bolts and had one bolt break, the driver side all the way against the firewall.
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Old Oct 30, 2015 | 02:26 PM
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Also, spray them all with some sort of penetrating lube, I used ac delco rust inhibitor from my dealership but ypb blaster or something else should work too
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Old Oct 30, 2015 | 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Jaxon2580
Hey I just did mine like two weeks ago on a 03 4.8, use an air rachet for the bolts up against the firewall, I used an air rachet for all of the bolts and had one bolt break, the driver side all the way against the firewall.
I am asking if anyone that has used header studs has had any issues with getting the headers installed over the stubs with out having to make additional clearance around the heads . for example, having to remove the steering column/shaft...
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Old Oct 30, 2015 | 02:43 PM
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George C....'s Avatar
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Use factory GM studs instead of arp...save yourself some coin

I had to install my studs with headers in place
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Old Oct 30, 2015 | 02:46 PM
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Originally Posted by George C....
Use factory GM studs instead of arp...save yourself some coin


Good call, that will help bring some cost down


Originally Posted by George C....
I had to install my studs with headers in place

was this because of my clearance concerns I am referring to? or for other reasons?

_Zblee
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Old Oct 30, 2015 | 03:06 PM
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definitely wont be able to install the studs first and put the headers on them. if nothing else youll have little to no room at the last stud by the firewall, and on the passenger side youll hit the frame before u can bring it out enough to get it on the studs. in place is gonna be pretty much the only option. and if they are 1-7/8 headers you have to take the steering shaft loose and change the bolt anyway or itll tear up the #3 cylinder primary
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Old Oct 30, 2015 | 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Low97tahoE
definitely wont be able to install the studs first and put the headers on them. if nothing else youll have little to no room at the last stud by the firewall, and on the passenger side youll hit the frame before u can bring it out enough to get it on the studs. in place is gonna be pretty much the only option. and if they are 1-7/8 headers you have to take the steering shaft loose and change the bolt anyway or itll tear up the #3 cylinder primary
ok thanks for response, this is exactly what I was afraid of. at this rate I think I will just get some nice bolts and bolt them up. I had some issues with cheaper bolts and have not had issues so far with the arp bolts.
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Old Nov 2, 2015 | 08:57 PM
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I installed my headers with header studs, fit like a champ. Put all studs in, then hung the header. Plenty of room
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Old Nov 2, 2015 | 09:32 PM
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I've always installed with just a few of the studs in, maybe the middle one and front one. Just enough to keep the gasket lined up and easy to hang the flange from. Then install the rest of the studs.
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