My wife’s TBSS had 5 broken bolts, 3 of which were recessed. I don’t have a welder, but I used the Lisle 71400 drill jig, and they all came out without much trouble.

 

I've gotten the others out pretty pain free free handing with a drill but you can't get to that back one with a drill like you can the passenger side. I'll pull the manifold off tomorrow to see about the welding idea.

 

The BTR one seems too spicy for my needs so I am leaning towards either the summit or the Vinci one.

 

For a 6.0 that BTR is not going to kill any torque, will gain more IMO and if you get someone to tune this which I recommend highly run it on 89 octane to avoid detonation while towing. Check out some of Richard Holdener's video on you tube. He does a great job covering GM performance and cam shaft selection.

 

Search for You Tube videos on a bolt extraction process known as "Electric Discharge Machining". I had to have this done at a local machine shop to remove a broken head bolt on my grandson's four wheeler - for $75 bucks. Pretty amazing to watch.

Rick

 

I've watched his videos and I'm looking to pick up tq, not lose it. Not something I want to do twice so I will be playing it safe.

 

For the bolt extraction... Removing the fender liner will gain some access with a better vantage point. I have removed numerous broken bolts on aluminum heads with a welder, most a couple threads deep. Aurthur's tip of building it up with tacks works. If using flux core, try to get a pick or brush in there to clean out the slag between tacks. Even though the weld wont stick to the aluminum, don't get it too hot with weld as it will melt out the threads.

If you have to remove the heads, efficiency can be gained with the stock head (even on a stock camshaft) by removing the large casting flash and a little bowl work and valve job. A mill for compression bump will also help across the board but will have a tradeoff with tune/octane. I would be more concerned about the low rpm/high load driving as a tow rig, especially with a stock or low duration cam due to the dynamic compression.

For your application, I like the BTR or Summit high lift out of the ones posted. They should keep the low end torque with a good midrange playing nice with a stock converter and be good on springs for lots of towing miles. I have the TSP 212/218 high lift in a 6.2L with a stock converter which I tow with occasionally. I noticed a minor torque lose below 2K but above that is all gains and rips 4000-6500. When I tow, I keep rpm 2500-3000 and it does well other than mpg.

 

I took the inner fender out to get the other two bolts, this one looks easier to access from the bottom. Thanks for the tip though. Where I really want to try to gain some tq is in the 2-3k range. I know it's hard to do with anything other than cubic inches but I'm not disappointed in how it is. more is better of course. On the hwy it cruises between 2200 and 2400. If it kicks out of OD then it might see 3k.

 

Then just add headers, get a tune and call it done.

 

Pat G can spec the cam and tune it afterwards. It’s nice to have one shop/person involved. Speaking from experience and a really good one at that.