Is it possible with bolt-ons & N20? What have other done to get a fast SUV?

Here's the list of items I'm hoping will get me there:

JET Stage 2 Performance Chip

K and N cold air intake

Gibson stainless headers

Gibson Swept Side Exhaust - Aluminized

BBK Throttle Body - 80MM

Granatelli Mass Airflow Sensor

Nitrous Express kit (can get a nice discount on NX)

Crane Cams Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator

Holley 50lbs/hr Fuel Injectors

Hypertech Low Temperature LS1 160° Powerstat

 

You'd need a high stall converter for sure to get close. Then a built trans in short order.

Um, a decent sized cam like a 214/220 .520/.540 114LSA will help a lot. I'd get some longer headers like The Other Guys or Arizona Speed and Marine.

Stock fuel pressure regualtor is fine. If you run a wet nitrous shot the stock injectors are fine too.

Consider an ASP pulley and electric fans.

I'd get a custom tune in lieu of the JET chip. You will gain more power from a custom tune.

A 200shot would maybe get you to the 14s with traction.

Personally I see you are asking too much for that beast to do...I am not sayin it can't be, it is just going to cost a TON of loot to do.

BTW...welcome here!

 

I dont know about the 13s but you came to the right place to find out what works and what doesnt.
Jet chip -garbage ,go westers PCM or edit
K&N-pass go UPD if you need an intake
gibson-a waste of $ go TOG or AZ speed LT
BBK-a waste
granatlli-causes lean conditions,a waste
N20-lots of guys here know WTF they are doing
You will want a TQ converter
From the looks of your budget.i would go used 6.0 longblock,mild cam,longtube headers,converter,custom PCM and N02 if needed.Suburbans are heavy .Cubic inches are the cheapest form of TQ,except no2.There will be several more opinions from other guys that have been there done that.

 

"suga how do you get so fly"

JK

here it is:

i'm not an expert, but all i can say is good luck with a burb. love the truck

cam, TC., S/C, weight reduction, tuning, headers, NOS, i have no IDEA. i'm sure someone with more experience than me will help

 

Check with Tom at TBYRNE (sponsor over here----->). He has a big block supercharged suburban, which is a different deal than what you are going for, but he sells a ton of other stuff and has always been real helpful to me and others on here. Welcome to the site, and keep us all updated. We love to see buildups in the making. I like a Whipple or Radix with like a 75 shot to boot on something that Bulky and Bulbous! And definately skip the shorty headers and go for the Long Tubes.

 

i agree with badmofo. i delt with TOM in the past and he is the BEST. he will direct you in the right direction and tell you everything you need. TOM ROCKS!

 

Hit Man and Gonzo got it pretty well summed up.

I'm not a N2O fan, but it works and if that's your game, more power to ya.

Gibson's are a waste. Don't get a shorty header, do it right and get the long tubes. AS&M's come coated, if you decide to go with The Other Guys headers, get them coated, they don't come coated. I like the TOG's better after seeing both of them and would recommend them to you. While we're on exhaust, ditch that boat anchor called a muffler under there for something a little more free flowing. Get a single in dual out at the least and dump it in front of the axles to cut down on restriction and cost. Also gives it a good sound I think.

Hit Man made a nice cam suggestion. If you go much bigger you will loose practicality as you are driving a fairly heavy truck and need the bottom end of the cam. That cam will also have a nice lope to it.

Skip the throttle body and MAF sensor. They aren't needed. There are f-body guys running big cubes/power on a stock MAF and ported stock throttle body.

I'd also go with some 4.10 gears in the rear. That will help you off the line a lot. I'd suggest a Yank TT2600 for that heavy of a truck. It will retain factory tow rating, and driving that heavy of a truck anything much bigger would get old and be hard on the rest of the drive train. While we're on the tranny, get a chift kit and some better servos. Don't get to crazy with the shift kit though, bone jarring shift are not always a good thing.

That should get you into the 14's. Remember you are driving a heavy truck. If it were me ... I'd put a RADIX supercharger on it. That will shave a lot of time off too. If you go boosted, get nothing smaller than a 114 lsa on the cam. Anymore and you will bleed off boost with the valve overlap.

You're asking a lot from that big of a truck. What kind of budget are we looking at? That will help out too. I'd definantly consider swapping in some more cubes. Maybe a 6.0 in good shape with a slightly larger cam.

 

Oh .. and welcome to the boards! You're in the right place to get that burb moving too. We will get you on the right track.

There is a lot of good and bad help on here, fortunantly more good than bad, which makes this forum so great.

I think I forgot to mention about some kind of cold air intake. I like my Volant, but they are all a lot a like really.

 

Welcome,

I would agree w/ the previous comments
I takes some time to learn but I would go with ls1-edit for tuning. the injectors aren't going to help you unless your going forced induction and then you'll definitley need edit to set your IFR's.
AS&M's TOG's or FLP headers (all are longer tubes than the gibson's
you'll need the stall (choice here depends on whether you'll tow w/ it or not.) 3000 max for towing.
shift kit and billet servos for the trans.
gears- you probably have 3.73's -consider 4.10's or (4.56 if your going to run big wheels and tires,because you going to add weight and get a larger rolling diameter)
80mm tb- onlyif you are running big power or a different intake the nylon intakes one only have like a 76mm opening.
I would definitely consider a Cam of some sort.
or just join us and get a RADIX.

 

Everyone above covered your questions pretty good

The problem with racing the Suburban is that it's not the most areodynamic vehicle on the road and it's heavy.

Flem has a nice combo - 02 Burb RADIX S/C 5.3W/ LS-6 HEADS. That would be a good way to go (have you run this at the track yet?).

I'm looking to just barely get my Suburban into the 13s and it made over 400rwhp. This truck is a 3/4 ton so it's heavier than yours but it has power from a supercharged/intercooled 8.1 big block. I hope to have some ETs next month.

I believe a stock 5.3 Suburban runs in the high 16s? So it's going to take alot to get into the 13s with this.

Tom