Free Mod List
#1
Has anyone ever put together and posted a list of the "Free Mods" that can be done to improve HP and performance in the new generation of trucks ??...if not, I have one put together that I would be glad to post....
Oh..and someone posted here asking about the other names for auto parts stores...they are CSK..(Checker, Shucks, Kragen) and AutoZone/Advance Auto Parts...depending on which part of the country you are from....
Oh..and someone posted here asking about the other names for auto parts stores...they are CSK..(Checker, Shucks, Kragen) and AutoZone/Advance Auto Parts...depending on which part of the country you are from....
#3
I didn't make any of these up...I have found them all over the internet and I figured I would share them with you guys...they have all been dyno proven to increase horsepower....these work on the 2.2, 4.3, 4.8, 5.3, 6.0 and 8.1 liter engines
1. Descreen the MAF....remove MAF, CAREFULLY pry honeycomb screen away from MAF face...DO NOT break the Sensor Wires in the center of the MAF or you will have a new $300 paper weight...the idle will drop about 100-150 RPM's but it will pick up pretty good upper RPM horsepower....good for 7-10 HP up above 3500 RPM...be sure to disconnect the battery for about 10 minutes after doing this to allow the computer to reset...it will have to relearn the idle and timing
2. Neuter the Air Intake Tube....Remove the tube from between the MAF and Throttle Body, cut off the offending appendages with a Dremel or other rotary tool, smooth cuts with sanding bit, clean tube VERY well, cover holes with metal body tape...2-3 layers...it's got an adhesive that is damn near indestructible and impervious to heat, if you hate the look of silver tape on a black intake you can either paint the intake or cover the silver tape with black Duct Tape....good for 10-12 hp throughout RPM range
3. Cut the EGR tube...open throttle plate and look inside...see the tube sticking into the air passage...let's get rid of it....Remove EGR tube bolt from the side of the throttle body...only 1 bolt should be there, pry the tube back from the throttle body, cut the tube at the step-up in the tube (it's pretty obvious where to cut)..reattach tube to throttle body...make sure you put the O-ring back in too ...good for 8-10 HP throughout RPM range
3. Throttle Body Coolant Bypass....remove coolant line on left side (as you look at motor from the front) of throttle body, remove coolant jumper line on right side of throttle body from both throttle body and intake manifold, connect line that came from the left side of the throttle body to intake manifold on the right side...the hose IS long enough to reach, you just have to be creative in routing it <<< WARNING >>> do not do this if you live in a COLD part of the country, the throttle body can and will ice up in the colder months ....good for 3-5 HP due to colder air charge throughout RPM range
5. remove Silencer from Air Box...open lid, remove filter, yank out silencer tube, replace filter, close Air Box...good for sound, HP has never been proven on this one, probably 1-2 HP at most though
All HP numbers are approximate, and apply to the 4.8, 5.3, and 6.0 LS1 style motors, I have done all of these and my 1/4 mile time dropped from a 15.63 to a 15.12...sorry no mph recorded
like I said in the beginning...I did not make any of these up...all I did was copy them from other sites..mostly F-Body and Corvette sites...but the intake tube mod was from a Truck Only site...all of these mods supposedly have been dyno tested to create the HP that I list with each mod...IDK if that is true or not
<small>[ February 15, 2003, 04:40 PM: Message edited by: Yelo ]</small>
1. Descreen the MAF....remove MAF, CAREFULLY pry honeycomb screen away from MAF face...DO NOT break the Sensor Wires in the center of the MAF or you will have a new $300 paper weight...the idle will drop about 100-150 RPM's but it will pick up pretty good upper RPM horsepower....good for 7-10 HP up above 3500 RPM...be sure to disconnect the battery for about 10 minutes after doing this to allow the computer to reset...it will have to relearn the idle and timing
2. Neuter the Air Intake Tube....Remove the tube from between the MAF and Throttle Body, cut off the offending appendages with a Dremel or other rotary tool, smooth cuts with sanding bit, clean tube VERY well, cover holes with metal body tape...2-3 layers...it's got an adhesive that is damn near indestructible and impervious to heat, if you hate the look of silver tape on a black intake you can either paint the intake or cover the silver tape with black Duct Tape....good for 10-12 hp throughout RPM range
3. Cut the EGR tube...open throttle plate and look inside...see the tube sticking into the air passage...let's get rid of it....Remove EGR tube bolt from the side of the throttle body...only 1 bolt should be there, pry the tube back from the throttle body, cut the tube at the step-up in the tube (it's pretty obvious where to cut)..reattach tube to throttle body...make sure you put the O-ring back in too ...good for 8-10 HP throughout RPM range
3. Throttle Body Coolant Bypass....remove coolant line on left side (as you look at motor from the front) of throttle body, remove coolant jumper line on right side of throttle body from both throttle body and intake manifold, connect line that came from the left side of the throttle body to intake manifold on the right side...the hose IS long enough to reach, you just have to be creative in routing it <<< WARNING >>> do not do this if you live in a COLD part of the country, the throttle body can and will ice up in the colder months ....good for 3-5 HP due to colder air charge throughout RPM range
5. remove Silencer from Air Box...open lid, remove filter, yank out silencer tube, replace filter, close Air Box...good for sound, HP has never been proven on this one, probably 1-2 HP at most though
All HP numbers are approximate, and apply to the 4.8, 5.3, and 6.0 LS1 style motors, I have done all of these and my 1/4 mile time dropped from a 15.63 to a 15.12...sorry no mph recorded
like I said in the beginning...I did not make any of these up...all I did was copy them from other sites..mostly F-Body and Corvette sites...but the intake tube mod was from a Truck Only site...all of these mods supposedly have been dyno tested to create the HP that I list with each mod...IDK if that is true or not
<small>[ February 15, 2003, 04:40 PM: Message edited by: Yelo ]</small>
#4
If its true then thats pretty cool. I haven't ever seen a list of HP freebies so thanks. <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" /> I am gunna try at least some of those mods out.
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#8
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by schultzb65:
<strong> How willl disconnecting the battery for 10 minutes affect my HPP3? Will I need to reprogram the computer <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Nope.
<strong> How willl disconnecting the battery for 10 minutes affect my HPP3? Will I need to reprogram the computer <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Nope.
#10
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Maxmumboom:
<strong> You also forgot to port and polish the TB. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">anybody know how to actually polish a TB.
<strong> You also forgot to port and polish the TB. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">anybody know how to actually polish a TB.




