Notices
GM Engine & Exhaust Performance EFI | GEN I/GEN II/GEN III/GEN IV Engines |Small Block | Big Block |
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Finally!!

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 09-26-2014, 09:39 AM
  #1  
TECH Addict
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
 
madmann26's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Somewhere north of 285, south of 985.
Posts: 2,987
Received 371 Likes on 299 Posts
Default Finally!!

I finally got an appointment with my wrench turner to get the following done on Tuesday:

1. CircleD 3200
2. Texas Speed 1 3/4 LT's (ypipe and cats)
3. Tune update


I'm kinda winging it on the LT's, ORY and cats. I've got 3in metallic spun cats (Magnaflow) and some band clamps. I should be able to do what I want, we'll see.

I've been spraying my stock exhaust bolts down for the last 2 days and will spray them down everyday until Tuesday. I don't want or need any broken bolts.

Pics to follow.
Old 09-26-2014, 11:52 AM
  #2  
Staging Lane
 
chadjcompton's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Rocky Mount, NC
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by madmann26
I finally got an appointment with my wrench turner to get the following done on Tuesday:

1. CircleD 3200
2. Texas Speed 1 3/4 LT's (ypipe and cats)
3. Tune update


I'm kinda winging it on the LT's, ORY and cats. I've got 3in metallic spun cats (Magnaflow) and some band clamps. I should be able to do what I want, we'll see.

I've been spraying my stock exhaust bolts down for the last 2 days and will spray them down everyday until Tuesday. I don't want or need any broken bolts.

Pics to follow.
what is this on? i had 2 broken bolts when i put my LT's on, but its not really a big deal if you know a welder, if they're aluminum heads like most LS engines, welds won't stick to aluminum so its no big deal to weld a nut onto the broken stud and then back it out with a wrench or socket. good luck!
Old 09-26-2014, 05:39 PM
  #3  
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
 
FFDP's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Rogers, MN
Posts: 5,191
Received 546 Likes on 472 Posts
Default

Vise grips work great too or stud extractor sockets.
Old 09-26-2014, 06:36 PM
  #4  
TECH Apprentice
 
Jason Z69's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Midlothian, Texas
Posts: 358
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Hey man good luck. I didnt have any problems when i did my headers. I had 78000 miles on my thruck tho. Just take ur time with the bolts turn them very slow. I turned them left then right very slow to start them loose. Engine must be completely cool. I also pulled my front wheels and fender liners out. It made it really easy. The bolts r rite in front of u and ur not hanging over the fenders.
Old 09-26-2014, 07:04 PM
  #5  
Teching In
 
SlickBeast's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Rio Grande Valley
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Yeah,that's pretty much the best thing to do.keep
Soaking until they become easy to work with.although I
Wouldn't mind replacing them if they're rusted..?
My opinion
Old 09-29-2014, 05:16 AM
  #6  
TECH Addict
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
 
madmann26's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Somewhere north of 285, south of 985.
Posts: 2,987
Received 371 Likes on 299 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by chadjcompton
what is this on? i had 2 broken bolts when i put my LT's on, but its not really a big deal if you know a welder, if they're aluminum heads like most LS engines, welds won't stick to aluminum so its no big deal to weld a nut onto the broken stud and then back it out with a wrench or socket. good luck!

It's a 2006 ECSB Sierra. I've got a couple of things done so far, LSR 265 cam, 4.11's, MIT and HP Tuners.
Old 09-29-2014, 12:52 PM
  #7  
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (6)
 
53bowtie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Detroit, MI
Posts: 1,614
Received 14 Likes on 9 Posts
Default

I would recommend these going back together...........

ARP Ls1 Stainless steel header studs with locking bolts
Old 09-29-2014, 12:59 PM
  #8  
TECH Addict
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
 
madmann26's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Somewhere north of 285, south of 985.
Posts: 2,987
Received 371 Likes on 299 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by 53bowtie
I would recommend these going back together...........

ARP Ls1 Stainless steel header studs with locking bolts
Thanks for the link.

I've got a set of ARP bolts. Wish I'd known about these a week ago or I would have ordered some.

Last edited by madmann26; 10-01-2014 at 05:14 AM.
Old 10-01-2014, 05:19 AM
  #9  
TECH Addict
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
 
madmann26's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Somewhere north of 285, south of 985.
Posts: 2,987
Received 371 Likes on 299 Posts
Default

Well fellas,

The LTs and ypipe are in. Jeebus that cam sings now.

When the transmission was getting pulled, I timed my mechanic and it took him 50min from the time he walked up under it to the time it was sitting on the transmission jack.

HOLY HELL what a difference that thing makes. To be fair, it feels a little loose for my liking but I'm getting used to it the more I drive it.

After it was put back together, we drove it around, checked the fluid, etc etc. I then got the bright idea to "test" the stall. LOL.

From a dead stop, matted the throttle down and both tires lit up through 1st AND 2nd gear.

When I drove it home, I didn't even turn the radio on...lol...
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
BROKE-aSS-BLAZER
GM Parts Classifieds
7
10-13-2017 03:50 PM
dsbodley
New Members
1
11-14-2015 09:46 PM
cheyenne383
GMT 800 & Older GM General Discussion
9
11-13-2015 09:24 AM
Velocity1
INTERNAL ENGINE MODIFICATIONS
7
10-02-2015 08:01 AM
Lthompson
FORCED INDUCTION
4
10-02-2015 12:45 AM



Quick Reply: Finally!!



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:41 AM.