Dyno results for the Z71. (heads/cam and 4L80E)
#1
I took the truck down to Rick yesterday to have it tuned after breaking the motor in. I wasn't there for the whole thing as I got called into work so I only got to be there for the tail end of the session. 
Ok, quick run down on the mods:
5.3L with stock HO pistons
GTP S2+ Heads (valves are a lil big)
Synergy Cam 226/.591/116
8.1L injectors
255lph Inline fuel pump
AS&M Long Tubes with no cats
Custom True dual 2.5" exhaust
AEM Intake
Stock 4L80E Conversion
PI 3000 3plate Multi-Disc stall converter
I forgot the dyno sheet so I'm going off the top of my head and I don't remember exactly because i really don't care about dyno #s much since I've never been blessed with good ones. The Dyno was a DynaPac unit. This is the type that attaches to your axle hubs and allows steady state tuning IE part throttle and will hold WOT at any RPM. Rick has recently updated the computer and it now dynos very similar to the Mustang Dyno he used to use.
Ok so the numbers as I remember them were 345rwhp,332rwtq.. I'm within 10rwhp but I can't remember if those were the final #s. I'll edit this post when Rick calls me back today. The truck made power well over 6400rpm but it was starting to flatten out so spinning it past 6500rpm wouldn't help much. I am close to what I expected with this big *** tranny and having to spin the 4wd crap. I'm sure someone will post up much better #s but I'm satisfied for now. I can always put my wet kit on it.
As for driving. Rick did all the part throttle tuning which made this beast 100x better for daily driving than it was with the stockish tune (the way I had been driving it for a week). I am a lil disappointed with the lack luster bottom end feeling due to the high 1st gear in this tranny and the small stall but that's the price I pay for wanting the thing "bulletproof" for an N/A setup and being able to tow. I don't even think I can spin the 32" tires from a dead stop without power braking it but once it hits about 4k it's like the truck freaks out and wants to run like a bat out of hell.
The cool thing is with this high gearing in the trans and my tall tires, I get wicked 1st gear drops at like 60mph and the truck just goes. At freeway speeds i get 2nd gear drops easy and she flys. Since I do the majority of my "playing" on the freeway this works very well for me and still keeps the utility of my truck so I am happy overall. Although if it didn't cost so damned much I would seriously think about doing 4.56 gears.
Thanks to Rick and Shawn at Synergy Motorsports for all the hard work in doing this build up and conversion. It was the first one they did and there have been no hiccups at all. Rick even detailed my truck with a buffer and it came out looking better than when i dropped it off. Thanks again homie!!!

Ok, quick run down on the mods:
5.3L with stock HO pistons
GTP S2+ Heads (valves are a lil big)
Synergy Cam 226/.591/116
8.1L injectors
255lph Inline fuel pump
AS&M Long Tubes with no cats
Custom True dual 2.5" exhaust
AEM Intake
Stock 4L80E Conversion
PI 3000 3plate Multi-Disc stall converter
I forgot the dyno sheet so I'm going off the top of my head and I don't remember exactly because i really don't care about dyno #s much since I've never been blessed with good ones. The Dyno was a DynaPac unit. This is the type that attaches to your axle hubs and allows steady state tuning IE part throttle and will hold WOT at any RPM. Rick has recently updated the computer and it now dynos very similar to the Mustang Dyno he used to use.
Ok so the numbers as I remember them were 345rwhp,332rwtq.. I'm within 10rwhp but I can't remember if those were the final #s. I'll edit this post when Rick calls me back today. The truck made power well over 6400rpm but it was starting to flatten out so spinning it past 6500rpm wouldn't help much. I am close to what I expected with this big *** tranny and having to spin the 4wd crap. I'm sure someone will post up much better #s but I'm satisfied for now. I can always put my wet kit on it.
As for driving. Rick did all the part throttle tuning which made this beast 100x better for daily driving than it was with the stockish tune (the way I had been driving it for a week). I am a lil disappointed with the lack luster bottom end feeling due to the high 1st gear in this tranny and the small stall but that's the price I pay for wanting the thing "bulletproof" for an N/A setup and being able to tow. I don't even think I can spin the 32" tires from a dead stop without power braking it but once it hits about 4k it's like the truck freaks out and wants to run like a bat out of hell.
The cool thing is with this high gearing in the trans and my tall tires, I get wicked 1st gear drops at like 60mph and the truck just goes. At freeway speeds i get 2nd gear drops easy and she flys. Since I do the majority of my "playing" on the freeway this works very well for me and still keeps the utility of my truck so I am happy overall. Although if it didn't cost so damned much I would seriously think about doing 4.56 gears.
Thanks to Rick and Shawn at Synergy Motorsports for all the hard work in doing this build up and conversion. It was the first one they did and there have been no hiccups at all. Rick even detailed my truck with a buffer and it came out looking better than when i dropped it off. Thanks again homie!!!
#4
Thx Green
Rick said the higher compresison, probably coupled with the large valves, was finicky to tune. Sometimes it liked a bit more timing and at other it didn't. Im sure he'll chime in here after he gets done with Fathers Day stuff. 
wkdivr, I bought the trans and T-Case from our loacl salvage yard. Rick got the conversion harness and such from some company but the part was VERY expensive and we could have just made the part ourselves but I'll let him tell you about that one as we were both pretty heated. LOL
Rick said the higher compresison, probably coupled with the large valves, was finicky to tune. Sometimes it liked a bit more timing and at other it didn't. Im sure he'll chime in here after he gets done with Fathers Day stuff. 
wkdivr, I bought the trans and T-Case from our loacl salvage yard. Rick got the conversion harness and such from some company but the part was VERY expensive and we could have just made the part ourselves but I'll let him tell you about that one as we were both pretty heated. LOL
#7
Thanks Zippy
I'm running the stock 3.73s. With the 32" tires and the lame duck 1st gear (2.48 vs 3.06 in the 4L60E) in the 4L80E it's not as fun as it used to be with the 4L60E and the Yank 3000 but the top end is much better than I've ever had short of the turbo. Truthfully though the top end almost feels like the turbo did on 5psi. LOL
I'm running the stock 3.73s. With the 32" tires and the lame duck 1st gear (2.48 vs 3.06 in the 4L60E) in the 4L80E it's not as fun as it used to be with the 4L60E and the Yank 3000 but the top end is much better than I've ever had short of the turbo. Truthfully though the top end almost feels like the turbo did on 5psi. LOL
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#8
man those are great numbers are they influenced because the dyno attached directly to the rear (not having to spin tires)?
that thing sounds like a beast, Im wishing i had bought those heads from you way back when i first got into this mess. I was seriously considering it I just didnt know enough at the time.
What are the full specs on that cam sounds interesting
I bet 4.56 would help tremendously with that first gear
that thing sounds like a beast, Im wishing i had bought those heads from you way back when i first got into this mess. I was seriously considering it I just didnt know enough at the time.
What are the full specs on that cam sounds interesting
I bet 4.56 would help tremendously with that first gear
#10
Yeah, the heads are pretty damn good. I just wasn't going to go any lower on them as i have WAY to much invested in em so I figured I might as well use em.. LOL
The dyno is within the same range as the local Mustang dyno. The software update uses conversion factors to keep the #s normal so you don't get super whacked out HP #s compared to a regualr wheels on dyno. I'm not sure how it all works but Rick can explain it better when he gets online. At first his software wasn't right so his dyno was like 10% higher than the local dynojets but after redynoing a few cars it seems everything is back inline. I would assume maybe within 5-10rwhp or so difference?
Watching this dyno work is really cool. I mean the truck just doesn't really move. No tirespin, no side to side rocking or extreme chassis lift etc. It's so smooth it's almost unreal.
As for my 1st gear. I didn't have the trans built. It was just a junk yard special so nothing fancy. Just a shift kit and the converter. If I ever get it rebuilt I may consider getting the 1st gear upgrade but form what i remember when I did my AOD in my Mustang it was a very expensive option for very little gain.
The dyno is within the same range as the local Mustang dyno. The software update uses conversion factors to keep the #s normal so you don't get super whacked out HP #s compared to a regualr wheels on dyno. I'm not sure how it all works but Rick can explain it better when he gets online. At first his software wasn't right so his dyno was like 10% higher than the local dynojets but after redynoing a few cars it seems everything is back inline. I would assume maybe within 5-10rwhp or so difference?
Watching this dyno work is really cool. I mean the truck just doesn't really move. No tirespin, no side to side rocking or extreme chassis lift etc. It's so smooth it's almost unreal.
As for my 1st gear. I didn't have the trans built. It was just a junk yard special so nothing fancy. Just a shift kit and the converter. If I ever get it rebuilt I may consider getting the 1st gear upgrade but form what i remember when I did my AOD in my Mustang it was a very expensive option for very little gain.






