dry shot?
#12
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maf does all the work....if you spray before it. my advice from learning from BigKID is to move the maff closer to the TB and still spray in the filter area. that way you don't freeze the maff
#16
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you are leaving the computer to do the fuel adding for one. i think you need better tuning. however and a big HOWEVER i am no expert. i have been reading just about everything i can on the two. i decided to go wet. it is more expensive but from what i have read can be safer. then again, that is from what i have read. if you look in the nitrous section, or do a search on wet vs dry you can read the pros and cons for both.
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Since the maf does the work. The proper steps would to be dial in your n-a tune. So when nitrous is used, the maf corrects for more flow, but to a more appropriate afr.
Is that right?
Pretty much a bad n-a tune, will have a bad nitrous tune.
There's some good threads about this in the Nitrous section.
The Cold Fusion, 100 dry shot for $430. Do you use a wot switch to activate it? I like the button activation setups, like Compucar uses.
Is that right?
Pretty much a bad n-a tune, will have a bad nitrous tune.
There's some good threads about this in the Nitrous section.
The Cold Fusion, 100 dry shot for $430. Do you use a wot switch to activate it? I like the button activation setups, like Compucar uses.
#19
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i would use a wot switch on any kit. also look into getting a window switch to activate it at around 3000 rpms and shutting it off during your shifts. so if you rev out to 6100 for each shift i would have it shut off at 5800 or so. at least thats my plan, as i don't want to spray through my shifts. i don't know what the timing should be on a dry shot. 28* maybe but i'll leave that to the peopole that are running a dry shot.
#20
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don't be scared go for a 100 shot it want hurt if you keep the basics 93 octane and dont spray till around 3000 rpm i sprayed a 150 shot almost 400 times now with out a fuel pump now i have a inline fuel pump and run a 175 shot no knock or any signs of wear.