Dropping the oil pan ??? yes or no
#11
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 16,820
Likes: 2
From: In a van DOWN BY THE RIVER
#12
#15
I wouldn't put any sealant on it other than a couple dabs where where the front and rear covers meet the block. You shouldn't have any problems with the pan sealing using a new gasket if you make sure your mating surfaces are properly cleaned.
When you reinstall your pan, if you haven't already, make sure you get it positioned squarely to the bellhousing otherwise you may crack it when you tighten down the bolts.
Tighten bolts outward from the center
do engine and front cover to pan bolts first they are 18ft/lbs
next the rear cover bolts (long ones) are 106in/lbs
and lastly the 2 bellhousing bolts are 37ft./lbs
in case you were wondering!
You probably found out you couldn't see much when you pulled the pan. If you remove the windage tray and oil pickup tube probably should throw a fresh o-ring in there. tray bolts are 18ft/lbs
When you reinstall your pan, if you haven't already, make sure you get it positioned squarely to the bellhousing otherwise you may crack it when you tighten down the bolts.
Tighten bolts outward from the center
do engine and front cover to pan bolts first they are 18ft/lbs
next the rear cover bolts (long ones) are 106in/lbs
and lastly the 2 bellhousing bolts are 37ft./lbs
in case you were wondering!
You probably found out you couldn't see much when you pulled the pan. If you remove the windage tray and oil pickup tube probably should throw a fresh o-ring in there. tray bolts are 18ft/lbs
#16
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 16,820
Likes: 2
From: In a van DOWN BY THE RIVER
I wouldn't put any sealant on it other than a couple dabs where where the front and rear covers meet the block. You shouldn't have any problems with the pan sealing using a new gasket if you make sure your mating surfaces are properly cleaned.
When you reinstall your pan, if you haven't already, make sure you get it positioned squarely to the bellhousing otherwise you may crack it when you tighten down the bolts.
Tighten bolts outward from the center
do engine and front cover to pan bolts first they are 18ft/lbs
next the rear cover bolts (long ones) are 106in/lbs
and lastly the 2 bellhousing bolts are 37ft./lbs
in case you were wondering!
You probably found out you couldn't see much when you pulled the pan. If you remove the windage tray and oil pickup tube probably should throw a fresh o-ring in there. tray bolts are 18ft/lbs
When you reinstall your pan, if you haven't already, make sure you get it positioned squarely to the bellhousing otherwise you may crack it when you tighten down the bolts.
Tighten bolts outward from the center
do engine and front cover to pan bolts first they are 18ft/lbs
next the rear cover bolts (long ones) are 106in/lbs
and lastly the 2 bellhousing bolts are 37ft./lbs
in case you were wondering!
You probably found out you couldn't see much when you pulled the pan. If you remove the windage tray and oil pickup tube probably should throw a fresh o-ring in there. tray bolts are 18ft/lbs
John
#17
I have replaced numerous oil pans because the pan was the actual cause. They get pourous and leak, or warp and leak. I have also seen the rear cover leaking, getting on the flywheel, and slinging side to side. LOOKING like te oil pan leaking
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