I am swaping cams in my DOD 5.3 this weekend and was wondering how the DOD lifters are holding up after a cam change?? I have searched all the DOD threads and haven't found anyone having problems so far. If anyone has had problems please respond and I will pull the heads and change lifters when changing cam. Thanks!!!

 

I havent heard of any problems with the lifters after the swap on those motors...just make sure to get a tune after the swap!

 

i have seen 1 or 2 threads with them going bad after a cam swap. What is the lift on the cam?

 

Yep new tune for sure. I'm sure my tuner hates me by now. He does free retunes and has tuned my truck 3 times now. Once the day I bought it, then after the converter change, and last time after I put the 456 gear in.

 

https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...d.php?t=431967

you need the ls2 valley cover also if you change the lifters.

 

I bought the texas speed 224/224-581/581 on the 112 LSA

 

replace the lifters for sure.

 

OK,

That's what I was thinking just to be safe. I'll order a set tonight along with the LS2 valley cover. Thanks for the info!!

 

With that big a lift cam, go LS7 lifters.

Need LS7 type lifter trays, DOD trays are different.

Buy the 3 bolt LS7 timing gear, black chain guide and 3 bolt kit from Lingenfelter.

New crank bolt, $1.99 from GMPartsDirect.

New LS2/LS6 type valley cover to replace the LOMA cover. You will have to figure out if you want to plug the new valley cover car type PCV hose nipple, or use it and plug the drivers side valve cover PCV hose nipple. Now is the time to think catch-can mod if you want.

Head gaskets, use GM OEM.

Guess you won't need to worry about holding the lifters up, as the DOD block you cannot use the 5/16 rods.

Use a pushrod length checker engine HOT. My 5.3 aluminum DOD motor needed 7.450" after the engine heated up and expanded.

Might want to shave heads a bit since you have them off?

ARP head bolts are less PITA than GM bolts, but expensive.

Make sure your tuner disables AFM/DOD.

Good luck.