Alright. After my tune comes in (I can't wait )I was gonna do nitrous, and then I changed my mind to a stall converter. Well, after getting the truck running better than it was last week... I've decided that there's probobly not enough traction for either. I have problems hooking up on any kinda of performance launch.

I think now the smartest thing to do would be to get a differential that will actually spin both rear wheels instead of just one.

I really don't know a whole lot about them.

What's the mechanical difference in posi-trac and limited slip?

How do they compare performance wise?

I've seen Eaton and Auburn.... what other good companies are there?

Does it come with the gears in it?

How hard is it to install? Some website said 1-2 hours and I figured it would be a LOT of work. I thought you had to pull the entire diffy and axle housing, and all that comes with it?

Thanks in advance!

 

I have always been under tha impression posi track and lsd have always been used synonemesly. I would go with an Eaton Posi or if you go with Auburn, make sure it's the pro series.
They don't come with gears. It's only the carrier and you have to buy what ever gear ratio you want seperately along with an installation kit that contains all the seals, bearings, shims, crush sleeves, nuts, gasket and checking compound.

 

I knew that website was full of ****!

That seems like a lot of work!

Can you pull the gears from your orignial diffy?
I've also heard that with gear installation there are tolerences within the thousands of an inch that must be met. That sounds pretty impossible for the home mechanic.

 

Positraction and limited slip are the same thing. Like Tiburon said, lots of parts are NOT included. Yes you do need to set up a rear-end with lots of precision, if not it will be noisy and wear out quick. You need to know how to set the back-lash, by shiming the carrier, and also the pinion depth, via pinion shims, crush sleeve etc. All of these are measured in thousandths of an inch, so if you don't have a dial indicator/magnetic base set-up, then you won't be able to do it properly. You also need to check the wear pattern of the gears, by using a marking compound. I always find that to be a little tricky.

You can just install a posi unit and keep your same gears, but don't touch the pinion shims. If you change them, and shim the carrier to obtain proper back-lash, etc., you'll create a new wear pattern on your gears, and they will make noise like a ****!

 

This is all french to me. I kinda know my way around a vehicle.... but this is well... french. I'm kinda intimidated now.

 

Just take to a shop that really knows how to work on differentials. We can help you decide what to buy.

 

I don't have the money to pay for a shop to do work. Whatever I do I have to do myself b/c I can't end up paying twice what the actual product is to have it in the truck b/c I make a whopping $7 an hour.

Thanks for the advice though. I got through to cam swap by myself with the forum's help, so maybe I can get through this. It's just a matter of learning the idea of it, then following instructions to a T. I just really need this before I can go any further.

-Derek