What about the T1?

T1 - .558 .558 / 221 221 / 112

I have heard a lot of good things about this cam in some of the cars. but how do you think it would perform in the 4300lb truck.

Anyone know of some dyno graphs of the T1?

 

All those cams will most likely be DOGGISH out of the hole! They "may" work well with BIG gears, convertors and traction aids. But with stock gears and no convertor you should be looking at something smaller. MTI has 2 cam profiles specifically for the trucks. The first is a 208'/.554" and the second is a 216'/.561", both on 114' LSA. These should provide good HP #'s with TONS of Low end Torque.
<img border="0" alt="[Truck]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_truck.gif" />

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by BradWlv:
<strong>What about the T1?

T1 - .558 .558 / 221 221 / 112

I have heard a lot of good things about this cam in some of the cars. but how do you think it would perform in the 4300lb truck.

Anyone know of some dyno graphs of the T1?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Here's a before and after dyno with a T1 Brad:
<img src="http://www.boomspeed.com/crager/t1cam.JPG" alt="" />
And here's after the heads:
<img src="http://www.boomspeed.com/crager/Hcdyno.jpg" alt="" />
I've heard that the B1 cam is better for nitrous. I have no clue as too how all of this will work in a heavy *** truck.

Good luck,
Craig.

 

I'll look into those...

The truck will have a 3000 stall and has the stock 3.73 gears with the locker. As for traction...it will have some caltrac's installed when I do the swap.

 

Also need to keep the new emissions crap in mind. Plus I'll be saying the larger motor is still the 5.3L.....

 

so craig...what do you think about this motor swap?

 

Brad, I think with your stall & gears it will handle the range of cams you are looking for. Especially, if you go 360 CID. You are going to need custom tuning or LS1 edit to set the truck up right. Your HPP3 will be worthless with your truck ECM. Even with the B1 (your best chance of the three cams at passing emiss.) , you will need a raised idle, 6500-6700 shift points, converter lock tuning from loss of vaccum and 6800 rev limitor. Just some things to think about. You can shift lower but usually 300 to 500 rpm above peak RWHP is were you get the best ET on the shifts. B1 and T1 peak around 6200-6400 RPM.

If you stay with a 347 CID, you may want to look into a little bit smaller duration and go with a .111 LSA Say a .218/.218 .550/.550 on a .111 or .112..I wouldn`t go to crazy with the steep ramps or you will have lots of valve train noise and be changing springs and parts every 10,000 miles or so. I would guess. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> Now if you go 360 CID, then you can stay with the same came or even step up a little more. Say B1 or T1. All depends on what you want to do.. These cams all run great on the spray. Neve noticed any difference between the three cams I ran on the spray in the hawk. T1, B1, and another cam that was a T1 with a .116 LSA.

Either way , it sounds like you are going to have fun.. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

<small>[ May 01, 2002, 03:00 PM: Message edited by: 99RedHawk ]</small>

 

I would pass emissions easier with the B1 since its a 144ls correct? If so I would prefer to go with the B1. I will be looking into some custom tuning or LS1edit when all this goes together.

I figured the somewhat lighter motor and the extra cubes would help out on the bottom end a little and make up for the cam a little bit. Not sure what the cubes will really come out to.....but I plan to offset grind the crank and bore the block over the most I can with the stock sleeves.

 

Look where PEAK torque is! 4700rpm! Too high for a truck, IMO.

Again just an opinion but save the short block money! You will need to replace all the accessory brackets and I believe use electric fans. If you retain your stock acc. and intake (on either the 5.3 or 5.7) and use the smaller cams, you should see peak toque move closer to 3500rpm. And this should still give good peak HP #'s. Also remember the truck have a driveline loss closer to 28% instead of an automatic F-bodies 18%.

PS. Brooke- 111 LSA? in a truck? What are you smoking? and can I have some? The man said pass emissions. And you're a little behind the times with your spring knowledge. There are some very reliable springs available from Comp and Manley.

<small>[ May 01, 2002, 04:26 PM: Message edited by: DaMann ]</small>

 

Electric fans are not a problem and I have already had some on my truck, but just recently sold them. The LS1 is a direct drop in for the truck in most cases. There is only 1 bolt that doesn't bolt up to the LS1 block that the accessory brackets use. But it is not a needed bolt anyway. I have spoken to a few people with the LS1's in their truck already and everything went great for them. The converter will help out the truck at getting off the line plus I am going from a 5.3L up to a 5.9L or so. I think there would be enough to make up for the bottom end on the truck. I am not looking for 1.60 60's out of a truck. If I can keep some of the big torque numbers out of the very low bottom end then it will help me hook up when I play arund on the street. I dont want to have to drive around everyday with et streets on just incase. I'm not concerned with how far I can spin the tires. Plus this truck will not be used for towing if after this swap is complete.

The cam can be swtiched out later down the road also if need be. I have the labor part of it covered so I will only need the time to do it at a friends shop.