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crank pulley removal problems

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Old Jul 30, 2007 | 12:45 PM
  #21  
usarmyman's Avatar
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From: Ft. Gibson, Oklahoma/Iraq till 09'
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I like to use German torque specs. Goog n' Tight. At least that's what I use on the militarys POS trucks. But something wedged in the pully has worked for me.
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Old Jul 31, 2007 | 07:15 AM
  #22  
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From: Bangor, PA
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Originally Posted by KySilverado
Correct torque sequence as far as I know it.

Get balancer back on.
With OLD bolt torque to 240 lb/ft - This assures balancer is fully seated.
Remove old bolt - Install new bolt and torque to 37 lb/ft
Then torque 140 more degrees of rotation

Agree. For reference, after you have the new bolt to 37lb/ft, 90* on the new bolt was 200 lb/ft. You need to go another 50* past that. Eat your Wheaties for breakfast.
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Old Jul 31, 2007 | 08:11 AM
  #23  
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From: Detroit
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this bolt is torque to yield, and factory coated with red locktite...I wedged a flat bar in the trans behind the torqueconverter, and used a long helper to add the leverage, air is nice but once you break a bolt off in the crank you will rethink using air too much. If you thought getting it off was hard, wait till you put it back in...you have a new bolt right?? a longer one??
I ended up putting the larger puller jaws on the medium puller base so that the puller was tight on the pulley and it finally came off, the first few mm are the tuffest...good luck, this is the tuffest part of a cam swap.
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