Colby 04 and I tried the bar and also bumping the starter and neither worked for us on mine. We ended up chaining the pulley to the crossmember and using a breaker bar for the bolt.

 

Word of warning - Virgil (meano5) and I broke the head and part of the shaft clean off using a 4' breaker bar. I would stick with a BIG impact wrench and just keep at it. Beats breaking it off...

 

I lay on my side/back and put my feet on the wheel and use a 4' breaker bar with an impact socket. I wedge a tire iron through the pulley and rest it on the ground to prevent turning. As Moze stated, be sure to keep the socket at right angles to prevent rounding off the bolt and possible breakage.

TIP: I did the bolt removal on a hot engine and a cold engine. The hot came off alot easier

 

Taking the pulley off sounds like a pain in the ***. Is it the gain worth the effort?

 

damn I'm not looking forward to do this.

 

I recently removed one after applying a little heat with a map gas torch to the bolt. Tried an impact gun , breaker bar with the flywheel pinned nothing worked. Heated the bolt a little came out nice and smooth. Hope this helps.

 

glad i have an arp bolt on mine, i cant wait to put on my replacment crank pulley.

how are you guys torquing them back down? i know its like a certain torque and then 275 degrees more. i dont know if the same is for the arp but mine is keyed so it wont be as much of a problem.

 

I only torque'd mine to 150ftlbs

 

Correct torque sequence as far as I know it.

Get balancer back on.
With OLD bolt torque to 240 lb/ft - This assures balancer is fully seated.
Remove old bolt - Install new bolt and torque to 37 lb/ft
Then torque 140 more degrees of rotation

 

Nope, but I will. Thanks for the idea. Hopefully this one will work.