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Crank bolt coming loose

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Old Feb 22, 2006 | 12:34 AM
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Default Crank bolt coming loose

This is the third time I lose my Ac belt. First time, I replaced the belt tensioner for the ac belt. That was after my cam swap. After that I noticed the UD pulley was about 1/4 loose, while checking out ac not working and belt had come off. I put a new bolt in there and after a month or so, here I am again looking at the stupid bely just riding on the neck of the pulley. Again I noticed the pulley is not all the way back. I bought another new bolt but first I want to ask you all if I'm doing something wrong or if I need to apply threadlock to the center bolt. I really am getting tired of this and it sucks because every person I know that have messed with their pulley don't have this problem. Any kind of info I'd appreciate
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Old Feb 22, 2006 | 01:54 AM
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I use a tool that bolts up where the starter goes and locks the flywheel. Then I put a 4' long pipe on a 1/2" breaker bar to tighten the bolt. The pulley isn't keyed so the bolt has to be tight. I don't remember GM's torque spec but it's x ft lbs and x degrees of rotation after that. Make sure everything is clean, use a new bolt and no pookie.
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Old Feb 22, 2006 | 02:58 AM
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Heres a fix for no key in the crank/pulley

https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...nk+pinning+kit
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Old Feb 22, 2006 | 06:38 PM
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That sounds like only supercharged engines
need to key their pulley, do I really need
to key it, or maybe I'm not torqueing it right?
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Old Feb 22, 2006 | 06:46 PM
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did you pull off your starter and lock up the flywheel before torqing down your pulley. ive never done it myself so i might be way off base but thats what i think needs to be done. im sure the asp website gives the right torque numbers.
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Old Feb 22, 2006 | 06:54 PM
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Well I have the UD pulleys and haven't had any problems. I would put some blue on there and tighten the **** out of it!!! It is very hard to achieve that torque to yield spec without the flywheel turning. I used the same bolt that came out and the pulley was also pressed onto the crank. Then I just tighten the crap out of it with an impact and then used a breaker bar. My methods may not be right but I've had my UD pulleys on for about a year and a half. No problems.
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Old Feb 22, 2006 | 07:20 PM
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when i did my cam swap i used the new bolt that came with the install kit.
put some red locktite on it and tightend it with the impact. never had a problem what so ever.
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Old Feb 22, 2006 | 08:10 PM
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That's what bugs me the most, that nobody
has had a similar problem, but oh well. The
way we prevent the flywheel from turning
is we use the serpentine belt and run it over
lapped from the crank pulley over the wp
pulley on to the alternator. It's hard to explain
but it does work. But I just tighten it without
using a longer or cheater pipe. This time I'll
put some threadlock and try to bend the cheater
pipe. LOL
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Old Feb 22, 2006 | 08:50 PM
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Use a new bolt. They are torqe to yield. With the old bolt torque to 220 lb/ft.Seats the pulley. Remove it. Put in the new bolt, torque to 37 lb ft then another 140*. Followed this to the letter after my cam install and not had a problem even with a SC.
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Old Feb 22, 2006 | 08:53 PM
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You need a big *** Tq wrench. Set it to 250 ft/lb and have at it. Once it clicks, do it again. There is a write up about it that says to push so many more degrees after the 250 ft/lbs but I cant remember what it is. Most people don't get the full 250 anyway just set it to 250 and push until you poop on yourself and you should be ok
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