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I'll reach out to my tuner and you can compare the stock vs modded graphs for yourself
it gained everywhere. I've proved you wrong on multiple occasions, so I'll be happy to do it again. Cam and LTs were the single best mods I did to my truck. And yes, I tow with it- almost 2000mi a year, and yes, it tows great
Based on every dyno I have seen on the subject you are giving up torque compared to a properly sized header. Simply do no not need a 1-7/8" until over 426 CID or have a power adder. A tri-y would put 95% of stock bottem end LS trucks down the track quicker than a 1-3/4" 4-1 much less a torque robbing 1-7/8". My ~500 hp 383 has a 1-5/8" primary tri-y and has no problem breathing at 6,200.
Back in 2011 and 2012 I ran both 1-3/4" long tubes with 3" collectors and Jeep SRT8 manifolds on my heads/cam/SRT8 intake Ram. I ran the headers with dual 3" pipes, high flow 3" cats to single 3.5" merge Y and a single 3.5" exhaust with a straight through magnaflow. I then ran the Jeep manifolds, stock Jeep cat setup with 2.75" tubing into a SRT10 quad cab 2.75" dual factory exhaust and muffler. The Jeep/SRT10 Ram hybrid system was as quick down the track as the headers with 18" collector extensions and quicker than the headers into single 3.5 system. The Jeep/SRT10 system also towed like a dream and had much better get up and go in normal driving.
You're also the guy who plagiarized dyno graphs, so it's a little hard to give .5 ***** what you have to say or "think"
however, I will wait for my tuner to get back to me about my *actual* NA build (because if you follow me, you know my truck made 477 with 12psi at one point)
You won't really see much of a peak horsepower difference from properly sized short vs long tubes or even LS manifolds for that matter. If you run with tubing and collectors too big for 90% of the engines operation it typically increases torque above peak. Thats like 1-7/8 primary with 3.5" collector type stuff. With a properly sized LT, its the torque added under the curve that shows the biggest gains.
And this is the myth that Engine Masters has disproven a couple times. I know I see it everywhere, and perhaps they did something wrong that I don't realize, but they are the only ones testing and showing actual numbers. What they have shown is different types of manifolds can slightly adjust the curve (by hairs), but backpressure is NOT good in any way. The only reason we don't all run dual 5" exhausts is because of the room and the weight. Running too large does not increase torque anywhere that's not the way it works.
Originally Posted by Fast355
I now have a 383 in it and run a dual 3" inlet Walker QuietFlow muffler and matching Walker 4" tailpipe for an 01-06 3500 HD on it. It flow extremely well and is very tame sounding.
It wasn't clear here if you changed the cam and headers at the same time, and then got your bump. That vehicle would have also had dual 3" exhaust factory.
And this is the myth that Engine Masters has disproven a couple times. I know I see it everywhere, and perhaps they did something wrong that I don't realize, but they are the only ones testing and showing actual numbers. What they have shown is different types of manifolds can slightly adjust the curve (by hairs), but backpressure is NOT good in any way. The only reason we don't all run dual 5" exhausts is because of the room and the weight. Running too large does not increase torque anywhere that's not the way it works.
It wasn't clear here if you changed the cam and headers at the same time, and then got your bump. That vehicle would have also had dual 3" exhaust factory.
They also showed Tri-Ys are a gimmick.
The reason we don't all run 5" is called scavenging. Same reason that oversize primaries hurt torque. Remember as throttle angle decreases the exhaust energy also decreases. You can lose torque and still dyno more power everywhere. As I stated before proper sizing takes into consideration off-idle and mid throttle torque as well, not just WFO. 1-7/8" primaries on even a stock displacement 6.0L feel lazy. Larger primary tubes will raise the torque curve slightly and push power higher.
Guess Creason Racing forgot to get the memo that tri-ys are a gimmick considering engine masters published their winning setup a few years ago. On a 570 hp small block they saw an additional 30 ft/lbs down low and no loss in upper-end hp. I drove a truck that I tuned before and after that went from 1-7/8" to stepped headers that started at 1-3/4, difference was night and day.
It wasn't clear here if you changed the cam and headers at the same time, and then got your bump. That vehicle would have also had dual 3" exhaust factory.
Ok, so all of that out of the way, can we assume that everyone here understands rudimentary algebra, Arabic numerals and has a basic comprehension of written English?
Because, if ALL of the above is true, and we know the math is correct; then explain to me oh wise fuckface HOW YOU LOSE TORQUE BUT GAIN POWER AT A GIVEN RPM
Damn man, just go away. You've been run off every forum I've Googled you too. You come in here and act like some ******* expert when you're just same hack *** mechanic who can't even clean his garage floor and wants to brag every chance he gets about his "healthy 383" like its some godsend of a motor. I'll give you credit and say you seem to know at least a little about stuff, but you need to sit back and stfu about the actual specifics. Gonna go edit someone else's dyno in MSPaint and post it as your own now too?
Ok, so all of that out of the way, can we assume that everyone here understands rudimentary algebra, Arabic numerals and has a basic comprehension of written English?
Because, if ALL of the above is true, and we know the math is correct; then explain to me oh wise fuckface HOW YOU LOSE TORQUE BUT GAIN POWER AT A GIVEN RPM
Damn man, just go away. You've been run off every forum I've Googled you too. You come in here and act like some ******* expert when you're just same hack *** mechanic who can't even clean his garage floor and wants to brag every chance he gets about his "healthy 383" like its some godsend of a motor. I'll give you credit and say you seem to know at least a little about stuff, but you need to sit back and stfu about the actual specifics. Gonna go edit someone else's dyno in MSPaint and post it as your own now too?
Obviously you missed what I was saying. You can create a loss of torque at less than WOT yet create more on a dyno at WOT. You are the one that assumed I was talking about WOT at a specific RPM. Its easy to kill exhaust velocity and scavenging at lower throttle and kill alot of torque in the process.
To be honest, I give could care less about how someone kills their driveability.
Literally could care less what you think of me personally or my mechanical abilities. My shops not currently organized or the cleanest, I know it and have barely had time off to even do any work at it in the past 6 months. Yet you feel its some great personal attack to call me a hack. Never said I was an expert but I do have a fair bit of real world experience on a variety of different vehicles.
My drivability isn't ruined at all, I love the way my truck drives
a persons work space says a lot about their attention to detail and ability to focus on minutia. So yeah, I'm calling it out
and since you've yet to post any actual data on what you're spewing, I'll just assume it's more drivel and baseless. Can't just post conjecture and acronyms and expect the world who's proven differently to bow down to you