CHEAPEST way to run 13's in an 01 5.3 rcsb
Sep 11, 2010 | 12:33 AM
#41
Ok so here is where I stand after tonight. I feel terrible about my outcome so far, but I think there is some outlook on the horizon.
So since running the 10.06 best I cut out the cats and replaced them with a pipe section, cut off stock muffler and welded in a dynomax super turbo muffler and installed a 204/218 on a 114 cam with yellow springs.
This has all been a great learning experience for me, however in even better air tonight I only ran a 10.03-10.04. WTF all that and 2 hundreds of a second. I understand the tune isn't there but I would have assumed it should have ran better(not tuned at all yet).
Also truck does not idle well. I would have thought this small of a cam would have been easier for the pcm to manage.
Stock style truck how do you guys launch. I'm not getting any wheelspin(track uses compound), and either punching it from idle or stalling it to 1200 didn't really seem to make a huge difference. It seems to just absolutely yawn off the line.
I want to see my changes make a difference. Is all the power hiding in a custom tune? Why can't stock pcm adapt to any of the improvements I have made.
So since running the 10.06 best I cut out the cats and replaced them with a pipe section, cut off stock muffler and welded in a dynomax super turbo muffler and installed a 204/218 on a 114 cam with yellow springs.
This has all been a great learning experience for me, however in even better air tonight I only ran a 10.03-10.04. WTF all that and 2 hundreds of a second. I understand the tune isn't there but I would have assumed it should have ran better(not tuned at all yet).
Also truck does not idle well. I would have thought this small of a cam would have been easier for the pcm to manage.
Stock style truck how do you guys launch. I'm not getting any wheelspin(track uses compound), and either punching it from idle or stalling it to 1200 didn't really seem to make a huge difference. It seems to just absolutely yawn off the line.
I want to see my changes make a difference. Is all the power hiding in a custom tune? Why can't stock pcm adapt to any of the improvements I have made.
Sep 11, 2010 | 08:13 PM
#44
Tune and stall are next, but I can't help but feel something is off. Even without a tune wouldn't you have thought a cam, and freer flowing exhaust would have at least given me a few tenths.
I'm a little bummed, and the tracks here in Canada are closing in a couple of weeks. I urgently want to put this truck away for winter with a good feeling in my heart/mind.
.........it's also not helping me be too reasonable thinking about a Radix........
PS: without a tune when you stomp the pedal to the floor from a standstill does torque management take effect or only on the shift?
I'm a little bummed, and the tracks here in Canada are closing in a couple of weeks. I urgently want to put this truck away for winter with a good feeling in my heart/mind.
.........it's also not helping me be too reasonable thinking about a Radix........
PS: without a tune when you stomp the pedal to the floor from a standstill does torque management take effect or only on the shift?
Sep 11, 2010 | 09:06 PM
#45
Teching In
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
you need a tune.
In most cases I've heard these trucks will lose power with a cam swap and no tune on a n/a engine. Boosted or nitrous is a different story. Think about it, your stock computer is telling your 'stock' cam to add x amount air at x time of the valves opening, but the new cam needs more at different rpms and is trying to suck in air/fuel that isn't there
The stock tune is conservative from the factory on timing, for obvious reasons. As someone else mentioned you may need more fuel for your bolt ons. Get a generic mail order performance tune, tell em what you have. They'll lean it out just enough for your general modifications and advance the timing. The problem some guys run into with bolt ons is the right bolt-on may be worth more than all the others combined. This is what sucks about all the $$ you put into exhaust. All that money coulda been spent on a set shorty headers and exhaust cutout (for the track) at the same price. You'd also see better gains at the track without the extra weight of fancy exhaust
A cam swap can be huge but you will need a tune, the best option is to tune yourself in real-time. Thats probably not an option so mail order tune unless you're rich get it dynoed. And don't get one of those hand held tuner gimmicks, mail order shops will treat you right and you'll see more gains
btw here's my list of mods you should finish up b4 hitting the track (in this order to, don't wanna be swapping computers all the time if mail-ordering): air-locker (or any type of manual locker thats strong), 3.90 gears (unless you want 4.10), 3200 stall, mail order tune, cheap slicks and wheels You'll be very surprised
In most cases I've heard these trucks will lose power with a cam swap and no tune on a n/a engine. Boosted or nitrous is a different story. Think about it, your stock computer is telling your 'stock' cam to add x amount air at x time of the valves opening, but the new cam needs more at different rpms and is trying to suck in air/fuel that isn't there
The stock tune is conservative from the factory on timing, for obvious reasons. As someone else mentioned you may need more fuel for your bolt ons. Get a generic mail order performance tune, tell em what you have. They'll lean it out just enough for your general modifications and advance the timing. The problem some guys run into with bolt ons is the right bolt-on may be worth more than all the others combined. This is what sucks about all the $$ you put into exhaust. All that money coulda been spent on a set shorty headers and exhaust cutout (for the track) at the same price. You'd also see better gains at the track without the extra weight of fancy exhaust
A cam swap can be huge but you will need a tune, the best option is to tune yourself in real-time. Thats probably not an option so mail order tune unless you're rich get it dynoed. And don't get one of those hand held tuner gimmicks, mail order shops will treat you right and you'll see more gains
btw here's my list of mods you should finish up b4 hitting the track (in this order to, don't wanna be swapping computers all the time if mail-ordering): air-locker (or any type of manual locker thats strong), 3.90 gears (unless you want 4.10), 3200 stall, mail order tune, cheap slicks and wheels You'll be very surprised
Last edited by 383chevy; Sep 11, 2010 at 09:17 PM.
Oct 22, 2010 | 09:54 PM
#47
Took a little while, but I got the 3000 Circle-D and AutoCal tune installed and made it to the track finally.
I am generally pleased with the final performance considering this was through stock manifolds and on 20's, with wheelspin through much of first and a 2.2 60ft.
Results: 9.1 1/8th....14.2 1/4....95.76mph
I'd like to try 26inch drag radials, headers, and shift kit next to see what those results give, but I have recently found a clean low mileage LQ4,soo.....................
We'll see what happens next year!
I am generally pleased with the final performance considering this was through stock manifolds and on 20's, with wheelspin through much of first and a 2.2 60ft.
Results: 9.1 1/8th....14.2 1/4....95.76mph
I'd like to try 26inch drag radials, headers, and shift kit next to see what those results give, but I have recently found a clean low mileage LQ4,soo.....................
We'll see what happens next year!
