Castec Heads on 04 5.3
12-05-2012, 05:17 PM
#11
I agree you will probably be fine, but it never hurts to check, and I promise you the first time you dont check and have a problem with piston to valve clearance, will be the absolute last time you dont check.
Preload is the length of the pushrod past zero-lash. 0.075" in my example above.
Preload is the length of the pushrod past zero-lash. 0.075" in my example above.
12-05-2012, 05:18 PM
#12
TXSZ66AVALANCHE, that is exactly what I wanted to hear. I'm thinking about measuring them just to learn the process but can everyone agree that I would be fine with just putting it back together with the stockers. Everything I've read so far tells me that the LS7 lifters are an OE replacement on these motors.
Now as far as setting preload, can anyone give me a little more info on the process and what is involved. Sorry for the noob questions. I know my way around a wrench but when it comes to engine building, and valvetrain stuff I have a lot to learn.
Now as far as setting preload, can anyone give me a little more info on the process and what is involved. Sorry for the noob questions. I know my way around a wrench but when it comes to engine building, and valvetrain stuff I have a lot to learn.
12-05-2012, 10:23 PM
#13
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Actually, I think that makes a lot of sense. What is the stock pushrod length and preload specs?
I thought I have been hearing 7.38" but is that with or without the preload?
I thought I have been hearing 7.38" but is that with or without the preload?
12-08-2012, 09:57 PM
#14
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Getting ready to put it back together and I've been reading debating stories on whether to use loctite on the head bolts or not. I was planning to just lube up the head bolts with a bit of oil and call it good. Anybody have another preferred method?
12-08-2012, 10:19 PM
#15
Make sure you clean the thread holes out. ARP sells a thread chase for LS engines. Your other option would be to modify an old head bolt.
12-09-2012, 02:10 AM
#19
Just a cut-off wheel. The width of the wheel was perfect. Held the bolt in a bench vise and then rotated it for each cut. Helps to mark the end of the bolt to keep them spaced even. Im a lil OCD... I just put an X on the end which showed me where to cut.