what degree and size valve locks do we have 99+ 5.3's

is it worth it to upgrade them to rev 6500-7k

ti or steel retainers? these any good?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...RK%3AMEWA%3AIT

arp rod bolts fit w/o modification? i've read some peeps say thier rods needed reeming to fit the bigger bolts

where to buy crankshaft socket?

what fittings do i need to make the air tool to hold the valves up?

viton valve seals any good?

should i go ahead and replace the timing gears when i replace the timing chain with an ls2 version?



so far i have

222/224 cam
918 springs
thermostat
gasket sealent

and need to buy or find/make

coolant 2 gallons (4 premix)
tr 7.43" pushrods
assembley lube
1/4" metal rod to hold up lifters 36"
valve spring compressor
harmonic balancer puller
TQ wrench in and ft lbs
radiator hoses
arp cracked rod bolts
spare locks
spare pen magnets
cauck gun for gasket sealer
air bdc tool
gasket kit - TSP (texas speed and performance) - 44$ timing cover gasket, seal, water pump gaskets, and longer crank bolt
valve seals
2 16mm high grade washers for crank pulley reinstallation
ls2 timing chain - 12586482 - 29 from sdpc
1/8" x 2" x 1'+ flat stock to hold flywheel in place for breaking loose the crank bolt
crankshaft socket

yes i plan on flushing the coolant, changing the oil and replacing a few "maintainence items"

lemme know if i'm missing anything besides beer, powerade, and fast food


thanks,
-Erik

 

oh and of course this thread http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?ar...952c9b119576e8

 

I used the regular steel valve locks with that cam and it pulled till 6600 where I had the shift point set. The ti retainers are the right ones you can do it if you want not necessary though. I would use the pen magnets instead of the rods alot of people have had problems with them. I went with new valve locks since they are cheap and are good insurance since they are machined instead of stamped like the factory ones. Dont know on the air chuck. I used a compression tester fitting with an air hose attached to it. You can get it at autozone or the local autoparts store. I believe your valve stem seals are going to be the ones that dont have the skirt on them. The skirted ones started being in used in 2001 cause they said mine could ahve either mine had the skirted ones. On the gears if they look a bit worn then replace them. My 5.3 had 165,000 on it when I did the cam swap and the gears looked fine. ARP rod bolts should be fine not heard of anyone having to reem them but I could be wrong. I didnt do them on my motor and I was spining it 6600 but thats luck of the draw.

 

werd werd thats koo, i'm budget building right now cc is edging maxed lol

how do i know if i have the skirted ones what do they look like? will the skirted ones work in the non skirted heads or is it specific?

i work at sears i'll jsut snag some pen magnets on sale and discount

-Erik

 

what degree and size valve locks do we have 99+ 5.3's

*Dunno, I used the stock ones

is it worth it to upgrade them to rev 6500-7k

*I'm running 7k on the stock ones

ti or steel retainers? these any good?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...TRK%3AMEWA%3AIT

arp rod bolts fit w/o modification? i've read some peeps say thier rods needed reeming to fit the bigger bolts

*If they don't, something's wrong. The old bolts have a sleeve in them that have to be pulled out of the rod cap though.That sleeve is not reused.

where to buy crankshaft socket?

*It's a 24mm socket. I used impact socket so it could take a like and keep on ticken.

what fittings do i need to make the air tool to hold the valves up?

Use a modified compression tester like 1slow said

viton valve seals any good?

*Again, stayed with stock ones

should i go ahead and replace the timing gears when i replace the timing chain with an ls2 version?

*Preventative maintenance never hurts.

 

i used rods to hold my lifers up. they were aggrivating but i made my own. took a little time to get them to fit like i wanted but i would rather use them instead of magnets.

 

Depending on the lift of the cam, you will need either 7.4 or 7.45 inch pushrods. There is nothing in between.

Your gaskets should be reusable.

Easiest way to put the balancer back on that I've found is with an air hammer. Take that same socket, or one bigger (something that will fir over the hole) and a short extension. Hold the socket in place, put the hammer bit in the end of the extension, and let it rip. Start off at about 40psi and work your way up to 90psi. By the time you start hitting it with 90psi, it will be in far enough for the bolt to pull it the rest of the way on.

You don't need assembly lude, just some cheap motor oil to pour over the cam. Since it's a roller cam, you don't need any assembly lube, cam oil, or anything like that. That also means there's no break in time for the new cam.

I've never used a lifter tool with any luck ... *knock on wood* I've always used the russian roulette method and not had a problem yet.

 

hm i was thinking the "russian roulette" method waiting like 10 mins to see if any lifters fall and if some do fall just use pen magnets on them

 

That seems like a good price for titanium retainers...I wonder who makes them?

 

man i would at least use something to hold the lifters up.
i used an old microwave laying around to heat up the balancer and it slipped right on all the way easy.