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Cam Install Soon

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Old 10-16-2004, 06:57 AM
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c'mon deckhand. what cam did you go with? don't be

Old 10-16-2004, 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by SportSide 5.3
c'mon deckhand. what cam did you go with? don't be

secret grind

























jk, 219/228 112
Old 10-16-2004, 11:12 AM
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Oh you went with the almighty hot-cam? nooooooooo
Old 10-16-2004, 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by SportSide 5.3
Oh you went with the almighty hot-cam? nooooooooo
Have fun tuning that thing.
Old 10-16-2004, 01:42 PM
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Default cam install....

Originally Posted by Deckhand
Hey guys this week I might tackle my cam installation. Ive bought the SDPC gasket kit that also includes the crank bolt. Is there any suggestions or insight that would make things easier? Do I have to mess with any of my A/C stuff? Thanks.
Really easy job, best part about it is, you don't have to scrub off old gasket material. I did this on my Z06 vette a while back. I used a new timing cover gasket and 2 water pump gaskets and a timing cover front seal, that was it. I reused the valve cover gaskets. They are all O ring gaskets. Definately get a new crank bolt. You will need a puller to get the crank pulley/dampner off. I ordered a longer crank bolt from some place online, actually ordered 2 one that was like 3/4 inch longer and one like 1inch longer. I just used a search engine and found them, grade 8 bolts I think. You need to follow the lbft ratings on all of the bolts....especially the crank bolt. On my car it says to use the stock crank bolt and torque to 240lbft then take it off. Then to get the new crank bolt and torque to a certain setting and then turn an additional so many degrees...can't remember what but a service manual will tell you. One other thing that will help you get the cam in, go to store and buy a long bolt or threaded rod of about 5-8inches to screw into cam to give some leverage on getting it out and in without nicking the cam bearings too bad, it really helps. You will have to take them out when you get cam about halfway out so they don't hit radiator etc.....but they help a lot.
Make sure oil pump o ring seats properly, get a new one of those also. I think you will have to take off oil pump to get bottom crank pulley off. I would get a new timing chain as well. The stock single row chains stretch a lot.
damon
Old 10-16-2004, 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by 99Silver5.3
Have fun tuning that thing.
allen should have a fun time
Old 10-16-2004, 02:21 PM
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He'll have no problem tuning it.

Hotcam: It's like bangin' fat women...don't knock it until you've tried it.
Old 10-16-2004, 03:06 PM
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Originally Posted by vanillagorilla
He'll have no problem tuning it.

Hotcam: It's like bangin' fat women...don't knock it until you've tried it.
lol..


hey, did you replace the valve seals and install the valve seats that come with the kit as well?
Old 10-16-2004, 04:19 PM
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The hotcam sucks in comparison to whats out there.
Old 10-16-2004, 10:22 PM
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There ARE more radical cams out there, but this is a 4.8 were talking here. Plus theres not many cams out there with a 228+ exhaust duration that keep the lift low. Our heads simply do not flow for **** above .540". 1.89"intake vavles and 1.55" exhaust valves don't cut it. If you plan on doing heads, then go for some high lift cam, more power to you. F-body guys continually make over 400rwhp with this cam, with a torque curve as flat as Nebraska. Its about area under the curve not peak #'s. Sure a TR224 might, and I say might, give you higher peak #'s, but the area under the curve will be a lot different. Plus Deckhand is spraying, and if you do a quick search here, you will see that this cam LOVES the juice! Just prepare yourself for a new fastest 4.8.

Deckhand, I did use the seats and seals. The seats are a different thickness than the stockers (about .040" I think) providing the proper installed height. Go get 'em!


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