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Old May 28, 2005 | 09:30 PM
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From: delphos oh
Default cam install

I'm going to be installing a new cam in acouple of weeks and have some questions? to remove the ballancer do i just yous a normal 2 or 3 jaw puller or do i need something special? how much of the stuff up front needs to be removed such as radiator shrouding and what not? and where is a good place to get the torque specs for everything? and whats the longer crank bolt for and where would i get one?
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Old May 28, 2005 | 10:05 PM
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Originally Posted by black4x4
I'm going to be installing a new cam in acouple of weeks and have some questions? to remove the ballancer do i just yous a normal 2 or 3 jaw puller or do i need something special? how much of the stuff up front needs to be removed such as radiator shrouding and what not? and where is a good place to get the torque specs for everything? and whats the longer crank bolt for and where would i get one?
Recommend 3 jaw puller. Make sure you get it on the shank of the balancer, not the little tabs. Hear tales of 2 jaws breaking the balancer.

Remove radiator and shroud. No need to remove A/C Condenser.

Longer crank bolt is for starting the balancer back on the crank. The stock bolt is to short and can possibly strip threads if you use it to pull the balancer on. Start with the longer bolt, pull it on the crank then put the original in. Got mine from McMaster Carr. 91310A868 m16 X 2 X120mm. Had to buy 5.

LS1Howto.com has good write up on the install along with the torque specs.
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Old May 28, 2005 | 10:11 PM
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Scoggin Dickey (SDPC) has a cam install gasket kit for about $40 that includes all of the gaskets and a new crank bolt (it's recommended to replace the crank bolt since it's torque to yield, although many have re-used theirs with no probs)
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Old May 28, 2005 | 10:48 PM
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Just a heads up on the longer crank pulley bolt. I ordered the kit from scoggin dickey and the bolt they sent was the same length, so pretty much useless as far as putting the pulley back on. I would highly* recomend getting the longer one, because it would have made that part of the job sooo much easier.
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Old May 28, 2005 | 11:08 PM
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Originally Posted by yackowski
Just a heads up on the longer crank pulley bolt. I ordered the kit from scoggin dickey and the bolt they sent was the same length, so pretty much useless as far as putting the pulley back on. I would highly* recomend getting the longer one, because it would have made that part of the job sooo much easier.
Yea, it's just a replacement bolt, not a longer one...I guess I should have specified that. I actually bought a tool from a guy in the tool section that worked flawlessly, It's basically a long threaded rod with an nut and a washer to pull the crank pulley on.
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Old May 28, 2005 | 11:21 PM
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I'm halfway though my cam swap as we speak. I really tore down my truck, way more than the minimum necessary, but I have plenty of room to work. I have a set of factory manuals with the torque specs. Get a three jaw puller, I borrrowed an absolutely badass one from budhayes3 and it worked flawlessly.
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Old May 28, 2005 | 11:41 PM
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Well Remove Radiator, Puley, Water Pump,and Front Timeing Cover And Then Remove All Push Rods Then Rotate Cam Few Times So Lifters Stay Up Then Remove Cam.
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Old May 29, 2005 | 03:38 AM
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I didn't remove my radiator, just pulled it up enough to get the old cam out and the new one in....
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Old Jun 1, 2005 | 12:26 PM
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From: delphos oh
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were are you guys getting the 3 jaw pullers and how big of ones are you guys getting?
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Old Jun 1, 2005 | 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Naked AV
I didn't remove my radiator, just pulled it up enough to get the old cam out and the new one in....
same here
another pair of hands really helps with this


make your on tools
its cheaper
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