cam install
#1
I'm going to be installing a new cam in acouple of weeks and have some questions? to remove the ballancer do i just yous a normal 2 or 3 jaw puller or do i need something special? how much of the stuff up front needs to be removed such as radiator shrouding and what not? and where is a good place to get the torque specs for everything? and whats the longer crank bolt for and where would i get one?
#2
Originally Posted by black4x4
I'm going to be installing a new cam in acouple of weeks and have some questions? to remove the ballancer do i just yous a normal 2 or 3 jaw puller or do i need something special? how much of the stuff up front needs to be removed such as radiator shrouding and what not? and where is a good place to get the torque specs for everything? and whats the longer crank bolt for and where would i get one?
Remove radiator and shroud. No need to remove A/C Condenser.
Longer crank bolt is for starting the balancer back on the crank. The stock bolt is to short and can possibly strip threads if you use it to pull the balancer on. Start with the longer bolt, pull it on the crank then put the original in. Got mine from McMaster Carr. 91310A868 m16 X 2 X120mm. Had to buy 5.
LS1Howto.com has good write up on the install along with the torque specs.
#3
Scoggin Dickey (SDPC) has a cam install gasket kit for about $40 that includes all of the gaskets and a new crank bolt (it's recommended to replace the crank bolt since it's torque to yield, although many have re-used theirs with no probs)
#4
Just a heads up on the longer crank pulley bolt. I ordered the kit from scoggin dickey and the bolt they sent was the same length, so pretty much useless as far as putting the pulley back on. I would highly* recomend getting the longer one, because it would have made that part of the job sooo much easier.
#5
Originally Posted by yackowski
Just a heads up on the longer crank pulley bolt. I ordered the kit from scoggin dickey and the bolt they sent was the same length, so pretty much useless as far as putting the pulley back on. I would highly* recomend getting the longer one, because it would have made that part of the job sooo much easier.
#6
I'm halfway though my cam swap as we speak. I really tore down my truck, way more than the minimum necessary, but I have plenty of room to work. I have a set of factory manuals with the torque specs. Get a three jaw puller, I borrrowed an absolutely badass one from budhayes3 and it worked flawlessly.
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#10
Originally Posted by Naked AV
I didn't remove my radiator, just pulled it up enough to get the old cam out and the new one in.... 

another pair of hands really helps with this
make your on tools
its cheaper



