With my setup...6.0 and Whipple...would this be a good cam choice
224/230 581/.588 114lsa (2000-7000rpm's)
Thinking about this cam and advancing the cam 4 degrees.
What should that bring the rpm's down to??
Is this a good choice??

 

Do you have a converter in there? If so what size?

If it's a Yank tt3000 I would install it just like it is. Is that a Thunder grind or custom Comp? Are the heads on your new motor stock?

The more I think about it ... I would stick that in there and wear an ear to ear grin everytime I got in it.

 

The heads are stock. I'm running a YankTT3000. My biggest concern is driveabilty and not reving the motor too high. In the 6.0 what should the hp peak at??
The cam is a comp cam, not even a custom grind. I think it may be a new one they came out with and I have found a good deal on a new one.

 

It should pull well up into the upper 6000's, if not the lower 7k's. Get you a good set of rod bolts and that should hold up to about 6800. I think that's what Parish is shifting his at with only rod bolts on the bottom end.

 

I think a 2* andvance/retard brings the powerband down/up 100rpms.

 

I was hoping that advancing the cam 4 degrees would make it peak around 6-6100.
I know the cam says 7000,but thought putting it in the 6.0 might bring it down some??
Any of this make sense or am i crazy??

 

It will bring it down some ... but I don't think it will that much. The bottom end in that 6 should be good up until 6400-6500 completely stock. With those bolts, it should in theory hold 7000, but I would feel safe at 6800 or so.

 

Would you need to spin it that high with a blower. Would the blower be fairly inefficient past at those rpms?

 

Install that baby 4 degrees advanced set the shifts at 6600 and get ready for some low 12s.What gears are you running a set of 4.10s would be nice,but 3.73s would probably be ok.I say go for it.

 

I'd run less lift to give the springs an easier time but that's me. I'd do what Whitt mentioned on the advance and appx shift points. If you have the motor out, toss in some ARP rodbolts too... I do not see you breaking the OE powdered metal rods.

Also, keep an eye on piston to valve clearances if you choose to advance the cam and keep that high lift...