2001si3rr@

iTrader: (1)

Well I finally got my cam: Comp Cams part# 54-414-11, Grind# LS1 XR269HR-14 / 216/220 .525/.532 114lsa; and my valve springs part# 12565313 / 2002 ZO6. I'm tring to find out the easiest way to put this cam in without taking the motor out. If anybody has a easy procedure of what to remove or get out of the way that would be great. I know that the intake, lifters, and pretty much all the front of the motor have to come off. What about the radiator and condensor? Should I remove from the grill back? Will the condensor move enough out of the way if I leave it connected? Any help would be great.

1BADHD

http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=2

Basically the same. You gotta pull the radiator. But can leave the A/C condenser in. Follow that prcedure, just dont pull the heads, LOL.

eallanboggs

iTrader: (1)

You need to keep the lifters from falling out of the plastic retainers once the cam is out. You need to use the JPR tool or the telescoping magnets or one of the homemade tools to hold the lifters up. I actually need the tool to also hold the lifters up during removal which isn't supposed to be a problem, but I couldn't get my cam all the way out without it. Why not install a double chain and ported oil pump while your working on the bottom end? The chain is high quality and you oil pressure will jump to 60 at idle. I think you only need 7 so you'll have more at idle than you need at higher RPMs. The LS1 oil pump rides on the crank instead of the cam so it spins at crank speed not 1/2 speed which increases the pressure.

Steve Bryant

iTrader: (1)

Here is a post that I did a few weeks ago on my experience with changing the cam in my truck. https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....2&postcount=48.

I agree that you only have to take out the radiator, the condenser will be fine. You do not have to remove either the heads or the intake manifold. Also, leave the fan on the water pump when you remove it. One thing that would really help is if you could get a longer (additional inch) metric bolt to both remove and install the crankshaft/harmonic balancer pulley. The article references the use of such a bolt, but I couldn't find one. I would really emphasize buying the special tool from Thunder Racing. As I said, in my other post, the 16 magnets are almost as expensive as the special tool and I'm sure that the special tool is much easier to use. Changing a cam is a big job, but it has made more difference in my truck than I would have imagined. I am going to dyno the truck when I install my headers later on, but I'm almost sure that I'm making more power than an LQ9 stock. And I'm still running 87 Octane.

The basic sequence of work is as follows:

Remove the plastic cowling that covers the radiator.

Remove the top half of the radiator shroud.

Disconnect hoses from the radiator and remove the radiator.

Remove the serpentine belt and water pump (fan still attached).

Remove the front crankshaft pulley with a puller.

Remove the Camshaft/Chain cover.

Remove the spark plug wires and plugs.

Remove the coil pack assemblies and valve covers.

Remove rocker arms and push rods (keep all in order to reinstall in same positions)

Remove original valve springs.

Replace valve seals (optional, highly recommended if over 75,000 miles)

Install new valve springs.

Install the pulley bolt in the crank and rotate crank and cam sprockets to align straight-up (this will greatly aid the installation of the new cam.

Remove the cam sprocket and chain.

Rotate the cam several revolutions and employ retaining method to hold lifters up.

Remove cam retention plate.

Carefully, patiently remove the cam (keep rotating and keep it aligned with the axis of the cam bearings and it will come out pretty soon).

Install clean and pre-oiled new cam. Note roller cams don't require the cam assembly grease. Comp and Crane both recommend engine oil.

Install cam retention plate.

Fasten cam sprocket to cam with two bolts (finger tight).

Rotate dot on cam to straight down.

Remove sprocket and install chain over sprocket and bolt snugly into place.

Verify that the dots line-up (straight up). Rotate the crank shaft two full revolutions (one revolution for the crank) and re-verify to your full satisfaction that the dots are aligned. This is possibly the most important step.

Torque bolts on cam.

Install stronger push rods of the correct length depending on valve lift (optional - absolutely necessary if you plan to rev over 6,250 or have significantly stiffer springs). Pre oil the push rods on both ends.

Pre-oil each end of the rocker arms and install them in their original positions and torque down to head. Rotate the crank shaft 180 degrees and re-torque the rocker arms. Again Rotate the crank shaft 180 degrees and re-torque the rocker arms. This is necessary to ensure that valves that were being pushed open by the cam lobes are being torqued down solid to the heads with the spring pressure relieved. This is an important step too.

Now rotate the crank two or three revolutions while listening carefully to make sure that there is no interference between valve and piston. Assuming that there is none, you can be virtually assured that everything will work fine.

The remainder of the assembly is a reversal of the disassembly.

Before reinstalling the spark plugs, remove the fuel pump fuse (to prevent flooding of the cylinders with raw gas) and crank the starter for about ten seconds (two or three times). This lets the oil pump pre-lube things a bit. The valve lifters will still be noisy for a bit after start-up.

Reinstall the fuse and install the plugs and wires.

Hit Man X

Wouldn't this cause oil starvation at higher RPMs for the bottom end? I've seen the high flow/high pressure pumps suck pans dry on SBF's...

2001si3rr@

iTrader: (1)

Well thank you all for your help so far. These are all things I need the figure out and plan before I start getting inside this thing.

ThunderZ28

iTrader: (7)

hey 2001si3rr@ let me know how that cam does and post a sound clip of it to. im curious as to how it sounds and feels.
thanks,
daniel