Block off plates for ASM headers?
#1
Does anyone know if the ASM's are like the Hamm's in that I will have to put plates on? Or does the ASM's have the correct number of egr/air connectors for my engine? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />
2001/5.3
<small>[ May 02, 2002, 02:43 PM: Message edited by: YUKONTURTLE ]</small>
2001/5.3
<small>[ May 02, 2002, 02:43 PM: Message edited by: YUKONTURTLE ]</small>
#2
ASM' are still made with and w/o air. The Hamm's are only made for Cali emmisions now (that's why some guys are having to get block off plates). You can still get the ASM's with out it. Mine are w/o air.
#3
Thanks, my Yukon is not a California car so that means I get the ASM's without the air? Am I right? I saw your picks of the ASM's and they look oh so sweet! What did you use to cut the head pipes off? I only have a hacksaw at home and plan todo the install myself and drive to the muffler shop after.
#4
I did it the hard way, not a hard as a hack saw though. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" /> If you cant get hold of a recipricating saw, go to an auto parts store that rents or loans tools. Get a tailpipe cutter and be prepared for a work out. It is a tool that has cutting wheels on a chain and you use it like vise grips. If you didn't already know. And Yes you will order NON-AIR.
#5
i think i want a set of these ASM headers, are they hard to get? or are they ready to ship? avaliability will have an impact on wich header i order.
#6
Build quality is great and availability is good. I definately can't complain about their performance either.
Richard
BTW- I have a California vehicle but never planned on using the AIR but I have 2 pyrometer probes in there place. The last thing I wanted to do is cut and weld on a new set of headers.
RW
<small>[ May 02, 2002, 09:33 PM: Message edited by: oxidizr ]</small>
Richard
BTW- I have a California vehicle but never planned on using the AIR but I have 2 pyrometer probes in there place. The last thing I wanted to do is cut and weld on a new set of headers.
RW
<small>[ May 02, 2002, 09:33 PM: Message edited by: oxidizr ]</small>
#7
Thanks guys! I'll go with the ASM's, but I heard there is a 2-4 week wait at TBYRNE. I've waited since February for the Hamm's with no reply yet! So I guess I can wait for the ASM's. I'll be sure to rent a reciprocating saw <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> Any other tips for the removal of the old and install with the new?
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#8
Fast 4.8,
I ordered the ASM's! They are on backorder though.
How long did it take you to install your headers? Also, did you do the welds yourself? I think I read somewhere that some of you drove it to a local shop and had it welded over there. Know if there are any problems driving it un-welded? Thanks for any info.
<small>[ May 06, 2002, 02:29 PM: Message edited by: YUKONTURTLE ]</small>
I ordered the ASM's! They are on backorder though.
How long did it take you to install your headers? Also, did you do the welds yourself? I think I read somewhere that some of you drove it to a local shop and had it welded over there. Know if there are any problems driving it un-welded? Thanks for any info.
<small>[ May 06, 2002, 02:29 PM: Message edited by: YUKONTURTLE ]</small>
#9
Get a recipricating saw and you will cut 50% of the time I took off. I used a tailpipe cutter and was determined to get them done that way once I started. Other than that it should take about 2 to 3 hours. Like I said earlier the oil dipstick was the hardest part for me to get seated back in properly. The last bolt on the driver side is PITA too. I think the directions say to remove the plugs, but I didn't. I drove to the shop myself, since it was only 3 or 4 miles away. The truck deinatly didn't idle high enough to stay running though. Probably because the 02 sensors. I had to drive with both feet, but it sounded badass <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />
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