Blew My Driveshaft up at 80! Long Post. Pics now up!
#11
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another vote
I have a 4" hd aluminum
www.dennysdriveshaft.com
http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/cre...c=ph%26.view=t
I drive the **** out of my truck evrytime I take it out.
I know that sounds stupid but build it like you drive it, beat that **** up until it comes back for more.
I have a 4" hd aluminum
www.dennysdriveshaft.com
http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/cre...c=ph%26.view=t
I drive the **** out of my truck evrytime I take it out.
I know that sounds stupid but build it like you drive it, beat that **** up until it comes back for more.
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hey, creederado,
on your driveshaft, i don't think denny's makes a HD 4" shaft, hd meaning the matrix metal they use, they do make a LT duty aluminum 4" shaft. Is that the one you have, they wouldn't make that one for me?
i agree, drive it hard and if it breaks make it stronger,
i say that now, but once i hit about 100mph in third i ease off of it, lol, still afraid it's going to break on me.
later,
allen
on your driveshaft, i don't think denny's makes a HD 4" shaft, hd meaning the matrix metal they use, they do make a LT duty aluminum 4" shaft. Is that the one you have, they wouldn't make that one for me?
i agree, drive it hard and if it breaks make it stronger,
i say that now, but once i hit about 100mph in third i ease off of it, lol, still afraid it's going to break on me.
later,
allen
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Well, it did break from the front, don't know if it ripped in the middle or what, but from the look of the bent and torn middle section, I am guessing that you are correct. I noticed that the framework under the truck, is somewhat setup as if it is made to capture the driveshaft when it breaks off from front or rear! Here are the pics, kind of convincing about the breaking in the middle part. I hope everything is OK. I was planning on upgrading this anyway, but did not think that the power level I am at would do this. Same here, I almost **** my pants when it went. I was so dissappointed. I am now trying to get some overtime so that I can hurry and get a built driveshaft. I have also noticed a bit of vibration around 70 to 80 mph, but took it as my suspension setup. I think that it probably was the balance and strength of this driveshaft. Now if I do as you, how much did it cost total for the driveshaft and new yoke on the rear, or is all that covered???
Oh, yeah, and thanks for the link, I bookmarked it!![Sad](https://www.performancetrucks.net/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_sad.gif)
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Oh, yeah, and thanks for the link, I bookmarked it!
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#14
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hey, creederado,
on your driveshaft, i don't think denny's makes a HD 4" shaft, hd meaning the matrix metal they use, they do make a LT duty aluminum 4" shaft. Is that the one you have, they wouldn't make that one for me?
on your driveshaft, i don't think denny's makes a HD 4" shaft, hd meaning the matrix metal they use, they do make a LT duty aluminum 4" shaft. Is that the one you have, they wouldn't make that one for me?
Hodgee has a very similiar truck to mine and even if he gets the radix I think this is the last shaft he'll ever buy.
Hodgee make sure you send them those pics and tell them what your planning. I actually sent them my old steel shaft and they duplicated it w/out me having to measure anything.
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The drive shaft doesn't speed up or down with engine rpm, only speed.
It wouldn't spin any faster @ 80mph if you were in 2nd, 3rd, or OD.
I'm not sure I see that one .. although it sounds very possible, just under different situations.
It wouldn't spin any faster @ 80mph if you were in 2nd, 3rd, or OD.
I'm not sure I see that one .. although it sounds very possible, just under different situations.
He said in third, the shaft speed and engine speed are very close to a 1:1 ratio, when you go into overdrive, it will spin that much faster,
when the engine rpms drop down from going into a higher gear, something has to spin faster, right? i guess so?
I would bet money on it, that his power didn't break it, it looks just like mine did , right in the middle,
Call denny's and they are going to tell you the same thing i did. Once i took their advice, i haven't broken a shaft yet, and been to the track several times.
Hodgee, I paid a little over 500$ for everything, the ujoint straps, 1350 rearend yoke, and HD 3.5" alum. shaft.
The bigger the diameter the higher the critical speed, the longer the shaft, the lower critical speed-which sux.
I wanted to take a new SS shaft, i was told they were about 70" long and are 5" in diamter, that falls right in line with the critical speed theory/fact. The longer the shaft the fatter it has to be.
I wanted to take one of those, send it to them, have them cut it and weld yokes for my setup, but they said they will not weld aluminum twice, it weakens it, oh well,
good luck,
allen
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Sorry to hear about your problems Hodgee! That really sucks especially since your truck is so new!
Hey I noticed you have the Hotchkis lowering springs. Did you install the new driveshaft bearing carrier and tranny spacer when you installed the springs?
Just curious.
good luck with your hopefully soon to be performed repairs.
Hey I noticed you have the Hotchkis lowering springs. Did you install the new driveshaft bearing carrier and tranny spacer when you installed the springs?
Just curious.
good luck with your hopefully soon to be performed repairs.
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No, it came with the parts for my kit, but stated in the instructions not to use them in a standard cab model, since it would put an incorrect angle on the driveline. Only for extra cab models!
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Yeah, I wish, with my lowered suspension, work done on my rearend, and other mods, that they would!,, They really should!