Kill switch for what? I'm not to worried with NHRA legal yet, not while it's a daily driver anyways.

 

For the battery. Ever see any bracket cars with the "on/off" switch on the back of the car? If you move the battery to anywhere other than the factory location under the hood, you have to have an external battery kill switch so the track officials can kill power to the vehicle if need be.

 

Do not use 4 gauge it is too small. At the smallest I would run 2 gauge is what comes in most kits. There is a taylor kit with a plastic box that sells for pretty cheap and comes with everything you need. That would be a good investment. If you want to make your own get you can get 0 gauge at local audio shops.

 

Have you considered the auxilliary battery location on the passenger side under the hood?
You can get a mounting plate from GM that bolts to the pass fender well and the firewall braces. The battery would sit at the back of the engine bay on the pass side corner near the firewall (between the A/C drier unit and the fender well).

 

Kinda ... This would definantly look better and look more factory like. You don't by chance have a part number do you? What about wiring, is there a factory wiring kit for this too?

 

Get some 0 gauge wire from a welding supply store. I have done this and it worked out great. Do you really need an 'on/off' switch if the battery is accessable in the bed of a truck? It does not lock like a car trunk does?

 

Well, my tonneau cover does.

One of the tech guys for the local 1/8th mile track posts on a local racing board...I'll ask him and double check. My understanding was that if the battery was relocated, it would need to have a kill switch. I'll let y'all know as soon as I hear back.

 

This is straight from the NHRA site:

Any car with a relocated battery must be equipped with a master electrical cutoff, capable of stopping all electrical functions including ignition (must shut the engine off, as well as fuel pumps, etc.). The switch must be located on the rear of the vehicle, with the "off" position clearly marked. If the switch is of a "push / pull" type, then "push" must be the motion that shuts off the switch, and plastic or "keyed" typed switches are prohibited. Also, the battery must be completely sealed from the driver and/or driver compartment. This means a metal bulkhead must separate the trunk from the driver compartment, or the battery must be located in a sealed, metal box constructed of minimum .024 inch steel or .032 inch aluminum, or in an NHRA accepted plastic box. In cars with a conventional trunk, metal can simply be installed behind the rear seat and under the package tray to effectively seal the battery off from the driver. In a hatchback type vehicle the battery box is usually the easiest solution, since the alternative is to fabricate a bulkhead which seals to the hatch when closed. At present, Moroso is the only company which offers an NHRA accepted plastic battery box, part number 74050

So, if you move the battery and want to run at an NHRA track, you'll need a kill switch.

 

Ryan .. did you move yours to the bed? Where at in the bed? Can you get any pics of where it hooked up under the hood and the location and mount of the battery?

 

And to add to the mess, its not a kill switch thats just in line with the positive battery cable, turning that off wont turn off the vehicle. Serious tracks and track officials won't let it pass if its wired incorrectly.