i put the balancer bolt about 1/4th in the threads and put that 3 jaw puller on the inside, theres even tabs or whatever u wanna call it back there for the puller.

 

yep, sucker comes off really easy. It also comes with rods to put inside if the crank so there's no need to mess up the face on the crank

 

well the rods that come with that seemed too short...could it be because we that nut faceing towards the bolt head instead of the crank? and the arms on the puller seemed to short to get a grip on the pulley

 

the arms grab behind the pulley. The rods are pulling the pulley off with the crank bolt out.

 

+1 i used this on my cam swap sunday. i just had to position it on the inside of the pulley, through the orifices, and it gripped the flat tab spots on the back tapered portion of the pulley. i also used M16 all thread instead of a longer bolt, made it super easy going back on, and lots cheaper for me.

 

Hooked a chain to the pulley and to the back of my buddies truck and told him to hit it! She popped off no problem.

 

I have the OTC puller for GM's and Chryslers...it looks like the one Tootall posted, but without the cool red box (mine just came in a cardboard box dammit). Can't remember exactly where I got it, but I typed "OTC" etc etc into google then price shopped the various websites that had it (may have been toolwarehouse.net or one of those). It works flawlessly as it's intended for the GM/Chrysler crank pullies.

 

I guess we'll try it again. I've got the puller from autozone and that one from oreily...

 

update he got it off..i guess he said the puller he bought had been used and didnt have the long rod..

 

****** ricer zone strikes again...sold me a used puller that had a couple messed up threads, somebody drilled the hole deeper than it needed to be and rods weren't long enough...we improvised though