Baer 14" Rotors ?
#11
Originally Posted by Snafudilligad
Im not trying tp mince words, per se, just a disclaimer for those that might see this and think that wheel diameter is the reason for upgrading the brakes as opposed to weight / rotating mass.
I agree with you Snafudilligad I'm just adding info
Now its beer time
#13
Originally Posted by 04BlackSilverado
It has a lot to do with tire height too. If your stockers are 29.75" tall and you put on 31" tall tires you will increase the torque on the brakes as well. It also depends where the bulk of the weight is. If a 16" wheel weighs the same as a 20" wheel, the 20" wheel will be harder to stop because the weight will be further from the center, increasing the force of torque on the brakes. ( I don't know if this may help understand) Like, if you put a rod through the center of a lawnmower tire and spun it and tried to stop it only using the rod it woulden't take too much effort. But if you did the same to a bicycle wheel that weighs a lot less it would be harder to stop due to the weight further from the center.
I agree with you Snafudilligad I'm just adding info
Now its beer time
I agree with you Snafudilligad I'm just adding info
Now its beer time

I completely overlooked (even though you can retain the same overall wheel height) that the weight being further out from the center creates more centrifical (sp?) force and thus, more difficult to stop with more weight toward the outer area of the wheel.
Duh
Thanks.
#14
Originally Posted by diamondd2
I was looking at this baer 14" upgrade myself.
The question I have is what happens after you can not cut the rotor any more? Where do you get a 14" rotor? Do you have to buy the whole damn kit again?
=Dave
The question I have is what happens after you can not cut the rotor any more? Where do you get a 14" rotor? Do you have to buy the whole damn kit again?
=Dave
So yes, once shot, you buy a new rotor. You cannot resurface a cross drilled rotor (unless something changed recently I am not aware of).
#15
Originally Posted by Snafudilligad
On a cross drilled rotor I dont think you will be "cutting" at all.
So yes, once shot, you buy a new rotor. You cannot resurface a cross drilled rotor (unless something changed recently I am not aware of).
So yes, once shot, you buy a new rotor. You cannot resurface a cross drilled rotor (unless something changed recently I am not aware of).
So that will cost $600-$700 everytime. Forget it.
=Dave
#16
Originally Posted by diamondd2
So that will cost $600-$700 everytime. Forget it.
=Dave
=Dave
#17
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 644
Likes: 0
From: Dallas, TX
Originally Posted by diamondd2
So that will cost $600-$700 everytime. Forget it.
=Dave
=Dave
#18
Originally Posted by KJ@SDPC
We have never had anyone have to replace a Baer rotor. As long as you keep good pads you should be fine. If something did happen though, we could get you a single rotor.
BTW. Can you get slotted replacement rotors or do you have to use the cross drilled type?
=Dave
#19
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 644
Likes: 0
From: Dallas, TX
Originally Posted by diamondd2
How much do replacement rotors cost? This might make it viable now.
BTW. Can you get slotted replacement rotors or do you have to use the cross drilled type?
=Dave
BTW. Can you get slotted replacement rotors or do you have to use the cross drilled type?
=Dave


