What all does it take to swap ARPs in? Someone told me you have to get your rods checked I thought it was just a take out the old, and put in the new. Also, what is the difference between the performance rod bolts, and the pro rod bolts, and lastly what is the max safe rpm I could turn with the ARP's.

 

That is only for SBC rods, not the LS1 style cracked rods. Just remove the bolts one at a time an use ARP's torque procedure. I dont believe there is much difference in the HP and Pro bolts but I got the Pros as they are the only ones Futral keeps in stock. Once you change the rod bolts, you valve train will be the determining factor on your max rpm.

 

I was thinking it was just for the small blocks. Thanks. Thats what I wanted to hear.

 

Damn White its a good thing we blew our engines at the same time you are asking all the questions I needed to know about.

 

Yeah! I bought the arp rod bolts and someone told me that you had to get the rods checked, and I did not put them on. Dam! I wish I had the right info at the right time. I still have them in my garage. They are now for sale $50 part#arp134-6006. In the summit catalog they are the High performance ones $70. I'll take $50 for them, brand new still sealed in the package.

 

You might want to search th LS1/LS6 internal section at ls1tech.com...I remember reading about a few guys having problems with the ARP's and the rod caps warping. Some guys have even had to machine the rods for proper fitment I believe. Supposedly, Katech makes direct replacement rod bolts...I've read that all Lingenfelter engines are built with these.

 

140 a set though damn but I guess you get what you pay for I may just go that orute just to make sure I dont have any problems.

 

DUDE U CAN PUT ROD BOLTS IN WITH THE MOTOR IN THE TRUCK EASY JUST REMOVE THE ENGINE CROSS MEMBER AND THE OIL PAN AND IT IS ALL RIGHT THEIR EASY.

I HAVE RAN ARP ROD BOLT IN 3 DIFFERENT MOTORS AND NEVER HAD A PROBLEM.

 

Whats the difference between the high performance and pro's?

 

Tensel(?) strenght. The HP series is enough I believe. The guy at TSP said you have to mill something on the rods for the Pro Series. So I just got the HP series. That's all the had anyway.

Install one at a time. You torque them three times to like 45 ft/lbs. Very simple. Hardest part is getting the oil pan off and even that's not hard, just time consuming.

That's how I put them in. No problems yet *KNOCK ON WOOD*. BTW I have somewhere around 170K miles on the motor.