ARH 1 7/8 are in
#1
ARH 1 7/8 are in
Got everything in and set up. This was the first set of headers I ever had to install the passenger side from the top. Due to the way the primaries are bent on that header it's impossible to get it in from the bottom. Anyways, Took the truck for a spin going from the stock exhaust to the 1 7/8' w 3" catless Y. I was very surprised the gain didn't feel nearly as much as I was expecting. I know when I put on headers in the past with the stock 60 and stock stall the gains felt way more. I wonder why this is. It seems like the stall gave a much bigger gain than the headers. Only thing left to do now is to add the cam I have sitting here and I'll be done with this truck.
BTW, I think I have have a broken motor mount. I'm getting an intermittent vibration in park and drive.
Regarding trans temps, anyone know what's a good temp to shoot for? Beating on it, it's sitting around 180-200 degrees with the stock trans cooler. Time for a tru cool?
BTW, I think I have have a broken motor mount. I'm getting an intermittent vibration in park and drive.
Regarding trans temps, anyone know what's a good temp to shoot for? Beating on it, it's sitting around 180-200 degrees with the stock trans cooler. Time for a tru cool?
Last edited by GMCtrk; 03-07-2010 at 07:25 PM.
#2
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The stall will help more than a set of LT's anyday with your setup. The trans temp isnt bad, 180-200 isnt bad at all but 160-180 is better. 20 horse gain with lt's is hard to feel anyway...
#5
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How close to the starter and tranny lines does the passenger side run? Also, how far back do the collectors go (if you can, use the transmission as a measure...ex: half way to the bell housing, to the beginning of the pan etc.).
I am considering a pair...
BTW, after a solid Ve / MAF tuing session, the gains will feel much better.
I am considering a pair...
BTW, after a solid Ve / MAF tuing session, the gains will feel much better.
#6
The headers fit perfectly. The ears on the 80e bellhousing are trimmed off though. This is necessary on the passenger side, but not the driver side.
There is plenty of clearance to the starter. Now, the trans lines. I am runing OEM hard lines. However, when we installed the trans I cut the wrong trans line. So my front cooler line is the stock 60 line, the rear one is for a 2500 suburban. But it goes to the opposite connection in the radiator than how it was set up from the factory. Anyway it stil works fine, but the two lines don't run as parallel to each other as they did stock. Make sense? I'll try and get some pictures up soon.
There is plenty of clearance to the starter. Now, the trans lines. I am runing OEM hard lines. However, when we installed the trans I cut the wrong trans line. So my front cooler line is the stock 60 line, the rear one is for a 2500 suburban. But it goes to the opposite connection in the radiator than how it was set up from the factory. Anyway it stil works fine, but the two lines don't run as parallel to each other as they did stock. Make sense? I'll try and get some pictures up soon.
#7
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The converter is soaking up some of that midrange hp and torque that you would've felt otherwise and you might be bypassing peak torque with that converter anyways. once you install the cam it will dramatically change the powerband and should bring it up to where it should be.
How's the header tick with the ARH's compared to the pacesetters? I'm thinking about putting in some new header gaskets to see if I have a leak at the head.
How's the header tick with the ARH's compared to the pacesetters? I'm thinking about putting in some new header gaskets to see if I have a leak at the head.