405hpta

iTrader: (1)

I have most of the stuff to make the next motor solid roller, and also have lifters etc to do hyd. just wondering if there are any solid roller trucks running around right now.

silent1

iTrader: (3)

Don't know of any but I don't think anyone would really recommend going solid roller if your truck is anything less than a drag/race only truck.

405hpta

iTrader: (1)

why is that? the added RPM and valvetrain stability would be great.

nightrunner

iTrader: (4)

im no expert by any means but with a solid roller, dont you have to adjust the tappets ALL the time, or was that just on the old gen 1 motors

405hpta

iTrader: (1)

thats just a myth really, maybe it was a more frequent thing on the more radical motors, but i've known/seen motors go 10k plus miles without adjustment and be fine.

LVSTOGOFST2002

iTrader: (3)

In my experiance, i'd disagree with this. Could be just me though. In my street car i adjusted them every oil change and they were always out of adjustment.

In my buddies circle track car that ran 50 laps per week ( 1/3 mile oval ) we'd adjust them every other week with the oil change.

Obviously since we were changing the oil that frequently ( it was needed, it would be as thin as water and black ) the circle track engine saw abuse.... but in either case, every oil change was the interval, and it was never a waste of time. They always were out of adjustment.

02_2500avalanche

Get a good set of shaft mount rockers like jesel or TD and I can guarantee you wont have to touch them if set up properly. BMW's M3 has solid lifters and has an 8500rpm rev limit and they are "supposed" to be adjusted every 60k miles, granted that engine is overhead cam with lash caps. You just need a stable and consistant way of keeping that adjustment. But you are looking at $800-$1200 for a good set of shat mounts where as you could just stay hydraulic with a good set for around $500. All comes down to money and how high you rev as well as how hard you drive.

Alex

kbracing96

iTrader: (26)

Unless it a race motor, I wouldn't run solid lifter. They do need more maintenance and they are nosier. They will most likely not play well with your knock sensors either. I know a circle track engine builder that builds a 500hp sealed, speck late model motor with stock LQ4 short block with only ARP rod bolts and a bigger hydraulic cam and rev limits the motor to 7k, and gives a 1 year warranty on the motors (unheard of with racing motor). So I don't think rpm is an issue with the hydraulic lifters.

405hpta

iTrader: (1)

you guys still use the knock sensors? wow... none on my setup. a good tune will do wonders. I've known MANY guys that have run 10k+ miles on big solid rollers with no adjustments. Hell Allan Futral street drove his .720+ lift solid roller setup for almost 2 years and never adjusted them once.

Having GOOD parts and knowing what you are doing plays a very big part in a setup like that. I think I'll probably end up doing solid roller just because I already have the good rockers etc.

kb, how many hydraulic lifter motors you see spinning over 8k rpm and making any kind of power? not saying I want to go that high but could. SR setups are more stable at the higher rpms due to the higher spring pressures.

kbracing96

iTrader: (26)

Sound like your building a race motor, so if that's the case (even if its in a street truck), then run solid lifter. 98% of the guys on here run street trucks, not track only or pleasure use only trucks. That's, why we stick with hydraulic lifters and knock sensors.